Echlinville’s Newest New ‘Old Comber’

In September 2021, the inaugural release of the ‘New Old Comber’ arrived shortly after the immense success of the ‘Whiskey Talkin’ TV series. Now, over two years later, the long-awaited second batch of Old Comber has made its debut, albeit in a notably limited quantity. The passage of time has brought substantial changes, not just in the world around us but also in the essence of Old Comber itself.

Over the past two years, Echlinville has undergone a remarkable transformation. One particularly notable aspect of this evolution has been their significant expansion efforts. As a crucial component of this expansion, they successfully safeguarded the future of a historic building, once a prominent Irish malting house. This facility had previously supplied malted barley to distilleries and breweries across Ireland. Echlinville’s objective was to reinstate the malting process on-site, enhancing their capacity to malt locally sourced barley. This strategic move aligns seamlessly with their overarching vision of resurrecting the renowned Dunville’s brand and positioning it among the world’s finest whiskies once again.

Echlinville’s unmistakable determination to succeed and deliver exceptional whiskey to its dedicated fan base is also evident. Their dedication has been duly acknowledged by the prestigious World Whisky Awards, where they clinched the coveted titles of Best Irish Single Malt for their acclaimed Palo Cortado finished 21-year-old and Best Irish Single Cask Single Malt PX 20-Year-Old Cask Strength, Cask 1644. Owner Shane Braniff proudly states, “Dunville’s is leading the way, outperforming some of the industry’s biggest names to be named Ireland’s Best.” These are only two of the 13 awards all received by the distillery. Most impressive could arguably be their first batch of Old Comber which won Best Single Pot Still under 7 Years.

Equally noteworthy was the departure of their master distiller, Graeme Miller, whose move to McConnell’s Irish Whiskey is viewed as a significant acquisition. Although we didn’t witness a dedicated Miller release from Echlinville-distilled spirits, we did receive glimpses of it, one of which was in the original Old Comber release. This seamlessly leads us to the latest iteration of Old Comber. However, much to the confusion of Dunville’s enthusiasts, particularly on social media, immediate comparisons have been drawn with the Old Comber released two years ago.

In my view, such comparisons are somewhat unproductive, given that this latest release is a blend of pot still and grain, while the initial release was exclusively pot still. Consequently, it becomes imperative to evaluate them on their individual merits—a task I will earnestly undertake, all the while nursing a third of a bottle of the inaugural Old Comber.

So obviously, this release is a blend, of which the ratio is unclear, distinctly departing from the traditional pot still whiskey. I must acknowledge that the change is both interesting and slightly perplexing. While grain whiskey is gaining popularity, combining it with what can only be described as a definitive pot still expression adds an element of confusion. Nevertheless, let’s delve into the details!

Echlinville Old Comber Blend

ABV: 46%

Price: £55 but currently sold out

Nose: Some intriguing notes come straight out, spiced vanilla bean and sweet rye bread are two of the most prominent. There’s also a very fresh and interesting green banana peel and some furniture polish perfume scent. There’s almost a mustiness to it, but there’s an indication that this absorbing nose is hopefully going to lead to a very good palate.

Palate: I’m not sure the palate lives up to the nose, but there’s still some quality notes. There’s more subtle spice, cinnamon and clove, not overwhelming, but certainly not mouth-watering either. What is lovely is the green apple peel with a little bit of lime zest. A lovely touch of pepper too and possibly some chilli chocolate. The texture and taste is almost cake-like. It does however feel a little mellow, not exactly jaw-dropping.

Finish: Probably not as long as I had hoped, although the heat gathers pace and accumulates with a gingery snap style heat.

Conclusion:

Here we have the sequel to the well-received Old Comber pot still, and while it may not surpass its predecessor, it brings a distinct character of its own. This expression delivers decently with a pleasing array of notes, a balanced touch of spice and sweetness. However, it lacks a certain edge, something I can’t quite put my finger on. It feels like I’m waiting for more—additional notes, depth, or flavours that never quite unfold.

I’m genuinely puzzled about the decision to produce this bottling as a sequel to the original Old Comber pot still, especially in its altered blended form. It leaves me wondering why they didn’t stick with the original, which was successful and award-winning. What adds to the confusion is the marginal increase in price and the nearly identical appearance, with only a subtle change in the label. While I appreciate the need for brands to diversify and create distinct expressions, this transformation feels almost unnecessary, reminiscent of my earlier review of Dead Island this year.

While this change may not be as detrimental to the brand as the Dead Island addition, it raises questions. I want to emphasise that this isn’t intended as a negative review. In reality, if the previous Old Comber hadn’t been released, this expression would likely have enthusiasts passionately supporting Echlinville. However, there’s a possibility that some fans might be left a bit perplexed by the shift in direction.

Score: 5.5/10

Leave a comment