The first local told us that the best fishing spot was this pond near this place about 2 miles from this other place. Another local said, no way, the best spot was 4 miles in the other direction, left after the thing, and follow that back until you see the really big trees. But then another guy said, nope, those places were fished out — we should drive up behind Roughlock Falls and then take two more right turns, go out a ways, and there would be the good fishing.
Don’t even get them started on which flies were hitting.
Welcome to Spearfish, S.D. Population: 10,585. Number of friendly residents with a firm opinion on the best place to fish, bike, eat or find wild asparagus growing along the side of the road: 10,394.
The only reason the other 191 residents didn’t have an opinion was that we were too busy trying to find the good fishing spots to chat with them.
By the time we returned from our fishing, hiking and biking trip to Spearfish — named for the fact that the Sioux did indeed once spear fish in its largest creek — I had seven pages of notes, all scribbled on from top to bottom with tips from locals. That’s a lot for a long weekend trip to a town that considers a fish hatchery to be one of its big attractions.
Of course, the D.C. Booth Historic National Fish Hatchery turned out to be one of our favorite stops, and it’s free. There’s nothing like looking down into a pond at hundreds of baby fish, then another pond packed with slightly larger versions, all destined for the very places you’re headed with a fly rod. Not to mention that the hatchery is nicely situated across the street from Spearfish City Park, an inviting respite along Canyon Street with a huge wooden playground and picnic areas, with Spearfish Creek burbling through.
The park seems to be perpetually packed with locals, and if you pause long enough and look as though you need information, someone is bound to start up a conversation — as a woman who noticed that I was taking pictures did. “Are you visiting?” she asked, and when I said yes and told her where I was from, she wanted to know if I needed directions anywhere.
By that point, we didn’t. We’d already met so many locals, we were set.
Our extended weekend trip — four or five days here is perfect, especially considering that Spearfish is about 6½ hours from Denver — started at Spearfish Creek Cabins in Wickiup Village, which sits between Lead and Spearfish, about 20 miles from the latter. Owners Jackie and Les Wolff have renovated the cabins at this old stagecoach stop property right on the creek and made the place an inviting destination for kids.
We could have fished right out behind our cabin, but Les, naturally, had some other suggestions.
“Spearfish Canyon gets pretty fished out,” Les said. “So you want to head away from the canyon and look at some of the ponds and other creeks in the area. There’s a ton of brown trout to be had, and some rainbow and brook, too.”
First, though, we had to find some extra gear, as only two of our four-member group had what we needed. Keith Wintersteen, group program naturalist for South Dakota Game, Fish & Parks, sent us to the Spearfish Rec Center to borrow an extra fly rod. They had only one left, so the helpful front desk guys there sent us to the fish hatchery to borrow another rod. Both places will lend them for the asking if they have them.
At the hatchery, the computer was down for purchasing fishing licenses. So the helpful volunteers working there sent us to the fly and bait shop Nature’s Nook, where owner Dave Baker revealed some super-secret fishing spots, as well as Crow Peak Brewing Co.
for outstanding craft beers and where to locate a known stash of wild asparagus along the road.
We’d already heard about Crow Peak from Joe Etzkorn at Rushmore Mountain Sports, a good place to know about if you need a last-minute bike part. Etzkorn not only rode with us to make sure we got from town through City Park to Spearfish Canyon for a daylong ride to see Bridal Veil Falls, but also gave us a list of his favorite eateries. That’s how we found ourselves at Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant one night after sampling the wares at Crow Peak.
At Crow Peak, bartender Aric Bakeberg wanted to know if we’d been to the falls yet — as in Roughlock and Spearfish. Located across from each other on U.S. 14A in Spearfish Canyon — this is the 19-mile stretch known as the Spearfish Canyon Scenic Byway — each set of falls has its own appeal. The water that feeds Roughlock flows into Spearfish Canyon from Little Spearfish Creek, and if you drive along Roughlock Road, you’ll find places to pull off to access some excellent fishing.
A few other good spots to try: Les Wolff suggested Hanna Creek, just up the road from the cabins, where we spent a lovely half-day in complete isolation and got lucky with a few fish, and local Dale Peterson likes the pond by Maurice dam in Spearfish Canyon.
Need some more ideas? Forget the visitor’s center — just pop into a shop in Spearfish and ask.
Kyle Wagner: 303-954-1599, travel@denverpost.com or twitter.com/kylewagnerworld
Spearfish insider’s guide
GET THERE: Spearfish is about 415 miles northeast of Denver via Interstate 25, U.S. 85 and Interstate 90, through Wyoming. It usually takes about 6V hours to drive there. Spearfish is 48 miles west of Rapid City. Most major airlines fly from Denver International Airport to Rapid City Regional; nonstop flights start at $379.
GET AROUND: Spearfish’s downtown streets are mostly laid out on a grid, so getting around is easy. Most shops have street maps, as well as the handy tear-off Black Hills map that shows the major highways — U.S. 14A, Interstate 90 and U.S. 85 — that will take you to Lead, Deadwood, Sturgis and other popular Black Hills areas such as Mount Rushmore and Custer State Park.
STAY: Spearfish Creek Cabins (21381 U.S. 85, Wickiup Village, 800-505-8268, spearfishcreekcab ins.com) are ideally located for a Black Hills trip, with easy access to Spearfish at the other end of the canyon, Lead and Deadwood. The simple, rustic cabins, situated on a historic stagecoach stop with Spearfish Creek running through the property, offer kitchens, one to three bedrooms and a gas fireplace. There’s a small playground, and the Stage Stop Cafe/convenience store sits next door.
SHOPPING: Nature’s Nook (1830 St. Joe St., Spearfish, 605-210-2718) is a tiny, friendly fly-fishing shop that stocks the right flies, bait and the other gear you need to make a fishing trip in the area happen. Owner Dave Baker is usually on-site to answer questions about what patterns are hitting and where to fish.
Rushmore Mountain Sports (505 Main St., 605-642-2885, rushmorebikes.com) is the stop for bike repair, parts and great tips on where to get out there from the helpful staff. And, if you happen to find yourself in town wanting to buy that sweet ride.
Two Wheeler Dealer Cycle & Fitness (215A E. Jackson Blvd., Spearfish, 605-642-7545, twowheelerdeal er.com) is the stop for a bike rental. Rates start at $29 per day ($18 for half), and their holdings include Specialized Rockhopper and Globe. Reserve ahead. They have locations in Rapid City and Sioux Falls, too.
DINE/DRINK: Stage Stop Cafe at Cheyenne Crossing (21415 U.S. 14A, Wickiup Village, 605-584-3510, cheyennecrossing.org) serves three hearty-portioned meals daily during the summer and sits next to the Spearfish Creek Cabins, 20 miles south of Spearfish at the other end of the canyon. One side of the eatery is a convenience store with souvenirs and snacks.
Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant (83 U.S. 14, Spearfish, 605-642-4765) makes a strong margarita and brings a variety of salsas to the table with the chips (the hot is really hot, by the way). Well-marinated meats, a well-melded mole, and a good-quality cheese on everything put this place a notch above.
Crow Peak Brewing Co. (85 U.S. 14, 605-717-0006, crowpeakbrewing.com) makes some of the best beers (and in a staggering variety of styles) you’re going to find anywhere, served in a big barn of a building with a nice deck conveniently located next door to Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant (and since Crow Peak only offers pizzas brought in from somewhere else and a popcorn machine, this works out nicely). The daily brews are written on a giant chalkboard behind the bar, and hope that bartender Aric Bakeberg is working; the guy knows his stuff. Personal favorite: the cocoa-toasty Pile-O-Dirt Porter. Open only until 9 p.m weekdays, 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 8 p.m. Sunday, so get in here during happy hour (4-6 p.m.).
DO: D.C. Booth Historic National Fish Hatchery (423 Hatchery Circle, Spearfish, 605-642-7730, dcbooth.fws.gov) is a family-friendly outing, a free attraction started in 1896 to stock trout populations in the Black Hills. Ponds with fish of all sizes can be fed from the baggies of fish food for sale (it helps to have a few bucks handy) and the sprawling complex features a railcar, museum, underwater viewing windows and plenty of space for kids to breathe. You can borrow fishing rods for free, too — you just need to present a current South Dakota fishing license (gfp.sd.gov/fishing-boating/fish-licenses.aspx). The city park sits right across the street, with its permanent exercise machines, picnic tables and lots of running-around room.
Spearfish Rec Aquatics Center (spearfishrec center.com) is the best use of a former Walmart imaginable — 71,000 square feet of family-friendly fun. It has a water park, a full-service fitness center with classes, sand volleyball and batting cages. There are picnic tables outside and a grassy area where you can eat your own food. A rec center day pass costs $4 (adults), $3 (ages 4-17); the water park costs $7.50 (adults), $6 (under 48″).
Little Spearfish and Rimrock Trails are two easy-to-moderate trails near Spearfish Canyon. Little Spearfish is a 6-mile loop trail, while Rimrock is a slightly harder 6.3-mile trek with shorter loop options. Both wind through forests of ponderosa pine, aspen and birch and have views of the limestone cliffs, with Little Spearfish Creek running alongside. To get to the trailhead, take U.S. 14A to Savoy. Go west on Forest Service Road 222 for 4.7 miles to the trailhead.
Kyle Wagner
