Food Recipes Salads Vietnamese Caesar Salad with Anchovy Croutons Be the first to rate & review! A classic Caesar salad is all about the dressing: creamy enough to cling to each leaf of lettuce and crunchy crouton, with bursts of flavor from salty anchovies, funky Parmigiano-Reggiano, garlic, and Worcestershire sauce. Chef Bryant Ng, of Cassia in Los Angeles, brings his own dressing together with some inspired additions: fish sauce, two kinds of anchovies (salt-packed and marinated), and plenty of fresh herbs like cilantro and red shiso. The result: a Caesar with even more umami and texture. Piled high on the plate, with craggy croutons seasoned with anchovy paste; plenty of extra-virgin olive oil; chewy, sweet dried figs; and shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano, each salad is a summer centerpiece. By Bryant Ng Bryant Ng Won Best New Chef at: The Spice Table, Los Angeles Born: 1977; Los Angeles. Education: Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. Experience: La Folie, San Francisco; Campanile and Pizzeria Mozza, Los Angeles; Restaurant Daniel, New York City. Previous career: “Like a good Asian boy, I studied molecular-cell and developmental biology and graduated from UCLA with a degree in business administration. After college, I worked in the biotech and pharmaceutical industry.” How he got into cooking: “When I was growing up, my parents owned a typical Chinese-American restaurant in Los Angeles. I washed dishes and helped in the kitchen. When I realized that I didn’t want to stay in biotech for the rest of my life, I decided to explore cooking. The Paris Le Cordon Bleu had one of the shortest courses, which is what I was looking for. When I walked into the kitchen, it made sense—it came naturally.” Memorable cooking experience: Cooking eggs for his grandparents. “When I was young, they’d stay with us on weekends. The first time I cooked eggs for them, I put the eggs in the pan, then the onions afterward: Of course, the onions were crunchy. So I learned to cook the onions first—it was my first learning experience in the kitchen.” Biggest influences: Chef Nancy Silverton of Pizzeria Mozza. “She has incredible dedication to everything she does and the people she works with. She’s hands-on. She was right next to us when Pizzeria Mozza opened, slicing pizzas.” Pet peeve: Dirty, unfolded kitchen towels. “I don’t know what it is—maybe I’m neurotic. When I see a dirty unfolded towel, it gets to my core. It irks me and grosses me out.” Ingredient obsession: All things lamb. “I’ve been obsessed with lamb recently—the liver, the shoulder, even the head. I’m cooking it whole, making terrines, pâtés. I like lamb that tastes like lamb—when its good, it’s delicate, almost like veal.” Most memorable meal: The Satay Club in Singapore. “Two of my grandparents lived in Singapore; the Satay Club is a hawker center. When I visited as a kid, it had a street-level grimy soulfulness you could only get from eating on the street. All the vendors cooking different foods—the Indian guy making roti, the Malaysian guy making satay—it all still sticks in my mind. Singapore has a crazy-intense humidity, which carries the aromas. It’s a visceral experience that still influences me.” Essential tool: “I have a satay grill. It’s about six feet wide, three feet deep. “When you walk into the restaurant, it’s the first thing you see, which is very intentional. I use almond wood and charcoal—it’s a chef’s dream.” Fantasy splurge: Vietnam. “My wife, Kim, is from Vietnam. She talks about eating in the countryside. In the States, we talk about farm-to-table; in Vietnam, they don’t use that term, but the food is ground-to-table, and they call it dinner. It’s such a different experience than you have in a more developed nation.” Cheap eat: Bonano’s Chicken, a Peruvian restaurant in L.A. “They do pollo a la brasa—a traditional dish of spit-roasted chicken over wood. It’s seasoned and cooked so perfectly, and it’s got the right amount of smoke—not too much or too little. It’s perfect. And the blood-clam ceviche is sweet and briny.” Favorite beer: Anything from Craftsman Brewing Company in Pasadena, California. “Mark Jilg opened Craftsman about 20 years ago. He had worked at jet-propulsion laboratories. Anything he brews is so thoughtful, intelligent and technically sound.” What his next restaurant would be: “I’d open a kind of B&B and just serve lunch. I’d still cook and be creative, but I wouldn’t have to serve hundreds of people a day. Maybe five, and maybe just lunch. It would be nice and comforting.” Food trend he most dislikes: Overuse of the term farm-to-table. “Philosophically, I love it. I practice it, the majority of my colleagues believe in it and practice it. What concerns me is when people just pay lip service to it, or a PR firm gives someone that label.” Favorite cookbook: The Zuni Cafe Cookbook. “I don’t cook this kind of cuisine, but the recipes are so well researched. Some of the techniques are so simple, so intelligent. Judy Rogers is not afraid to go against convention. She talks about stocks and how it’s blasphemous to add salt—then she sprinkles in salt. Now I add salt to my stock.” Twitter hero: Jonathan Gold ( @thejgold). Favorite food-related app: “Recently, Food & Wine’s Best New Chef app. And Chefs Feed [an app that chronicles the places top chefs eat]. It’s a combination of high- and low-end cuisine and you get to see what everyone else is eating.” Food & Wine's Editorial Guidelines Updated on August 2, 2023 Tested by Food & Wine Test Kitchen Tested by Food & Wine Test Kitchen Recipes published by Food & Wine are rigorously tested by the culinary professionals at the Dotdash Meredith Food Studios in order to empower home cooks to enjoy being in the kitchen and preparing meals they will love. Our expert culinary team tests and retests each recipe using equipment and ingredients found in home kitchens to ensure that every recipe is delicious and works for cooks at home every single time. Meet the Food & Wine Test Kitchen Rate PRINT Share Trending Videos Close this video player Photo: Victor Protasio Active Time: 35 mins Total Time: 45 mins Yield: 4 Ingredients CAESAR DRESSING 15 salt-packed whole anchovies (such as Agostino Recca) or 3 tablespoons store-bought anchovy paste, divided 2 cups mayonnaise (such as Hellmann’s) 3 tablespoons water, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 2 3/4 teaspoons grated garlic 3/4 teaspoon fish sauce (such as Red Boat) 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce CROUTONS 1 (1-pound) rustic bread loaf, crust removed (discard or reserve for another use), loaf torn into bite-size pieces (about 6 cups) 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 1/2 tablespoons grated garlic Pinch of kosher salt, or to taste Pinch of coarsely ground black pepper, or to taste SALAD 2 large heads romaine lettuce, cut into 1/2-inch strips (about 8 cups) 4 cups torn frisée Pinch of kosher salt, or to taste 2 cups thinly sliced red onion 2 cups loosely packed mixed fresh herbs (such as mint, red shiso, and Vietnamese coriander, or Thai basil, cilantro, flat-leaf parsley, and chives) 12 dried figs, stemmed and quartered 3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated (about 3/4 cup) 24 marinated white anchovy fillets (boquerones) 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons Chile Oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice Directions Make the Caesar dressing If using salt-packed anchovies, rinse them under cold water. Place salt-packed anchovies in a medium bowl, cover with cold water, and let stand until pliable, about 20 minutes. Using your fingers, start where the body meets the tail, and pry open along the back, lifting out backbone to yield 2 fillets. Rinse fillets again to remove any fine bones; pat dry with paper towels. Finely chop cleaned anchovies. Using flat side of a large knife, drag knife back and forth over chopped anchovies to form a paste, chopping and dragging knife as needed to equal 3 tablespoons anchovy paste. Set paste aside; reserve remaining anchovies for another use. Whisk together mayonnaise, 3 tablespoons water, lemon juice, cheese, garlic, fish sauce, pepper, Worcestershire, and 2 tablespoons homemade anchovy paste (or store-bought anchovy paste) until thoroughly blended. Whisk in more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, to loosen dressing as desired. Make the croutons Preheat oven to 350°F. Place torn bread in a large bowl; set aside. Combine oil, garlic, and remaining 1 tablespoon anchovy paste in a saucepan; cook over medium, stirring often, until garlic is tender and mixture is very fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Drizzle over bread, and gently toss until oil is absorbed. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange croutons in a single layer on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Bake on separate oven racks in preheated oven until browned and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring croutons and rotating baking sheets (top to bottom) halfway through baking time. Make the salad Gently toss together romaine, frisée, and 1/2 cup dressing in a large bowl. Reserve remaining dressing for another use. Season with salt. Add onion, herbs, and figs; toss to combine. Divide salad mixture among 4 plates. Top salad evenly with croutons, cheese, and anchovy fillets. Drizzle chile oil and lemon juice evenly over salads. Make Ahead Caesar dressing may be prepared up to 3 days ahead; cover and chill until ready to serve. Croutons may be prepared up to 1 day ahead; store in an airtight container at room temperature. Suggested Pairing Smoky, vivid Pouilly-Fumé. Originally appeared: August 2019 Rate It Print