Mediterranean Seafood - Prospect Books

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD 

MediterraneanSeafood.pdf 1 26/06/2012 10:52

A tunny-merchant of the fourth century b.c., 

from a vase in the Museum at Cefalù in Sicily. 


Alan Davidson 

Mediterranean Seafood 

NEW EDITION A handbook giving the names in seven 

languages of 150 species of �sh, with 50 

crustaceans, molluscs and other marine 

creatures, and an essay on �sh cookery, 

with over 200 recipes from the 

Mediterranean and Black Sea countries 

PROSPECT BOOKS 

2012 


�is edition published in Great Britain in 2012 by Prospect Books, 

Allaleigh House, Blackawton, Totnes, Devon TQ9 7DL. 

�e �rst edition was originally published in Great Britain in 1972 by Penguin 

books; a second edition was published in 1981. A revision was published by 

Prospect Books in 2002, of which this is a reprinting. 

Copyright © the estate of Alan Davidson 2012. 

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or 

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, 

photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the 

copyright holder. 

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data: 

A catalogue entry for this book is available from the British Library. 

ISBN 97�-1-903018-94-1 

Set in Minion by Emma Glaisher 

Printed and bound by Gutenberg Press Ltd., Malta. 


I dedicate this book to my wife Jane, whose casual request on a spring day in 

Carthage for a list of Tunisian fish and their English names was the seed from 

which the book grew, and who has tolerated and even encouraged the consequent 

invasion of her household by fish experts, fish documents and fish cookery 

experiments. 

Mindful of other ladies in my life to whom I should like to make a tribute both 

literary and culinary, I adorn this dedication with honorific mention of my 

mother Constance; my sister Rosemary; and my daughters Caroline, Pamela and 

Jennifer, whose readiness to reflect and thereby intensify my own enthusiasms has 

been a great help. 


The shaded areas represent the ‘Continental shelf’, where the depth of water is 

less than 100 fathoms/200 metres/600 feet. 


Contents 

Map 6 

Acknowledgements 9 

Introduction 11 

Introduction to the new edition 12 

The Mediterranean Sea 13 

CATALOGUES AND NOTES 

1. explanation of the catalogues 19 

2. catalogue of fish 

The Sea Lamprey 24 

Sharks 26 

Rays 33 

Sturgeon 37 

Clupeoid Fish 41 

Lizard Fish and Eels 50 

Garfish and Flying Fish 56 

The Order of Cod-like Fish 59 

The John Dory 65 

The Family of Sea Bass and Groupers 67 

The Sea Bream Family and the Picarels 74 

Red Mullets 92 

Sciaenid Fish, the Bluefish, Carangid Fish and Others 96 

The Dolphin Fish and Ray’s Bream 106 

Wrasses and Kindred Fish 109 

The Sand-eel, the Weevers and the Star-gazer 113 

The Rabbit Fish and the Scabbard Fish 117 

Mackerel and Bonito 120 

The Tuna (or Tunny) Family 125 

The Luvar and the Swordfish 131 

The Pomfret, the Blennies and the Gobies 133 

The Barracuda and the Silversides 137 

Grey Mullets 140 

The Family Scorpaenidae and the Gurnards 145 


8 mediterranean seafood 

Flatfish: 1, Sinistral 154 

Flatfish: 2, Dextral 160 

Trigger-Fish and Angler-Fish 165 

3. catalogue of crustaceans 169 

Prawns and Shrimps 170 

Lobsters and Related Creatures 177 

Crabs and the Mantis Shrimp 182 

4. catalogue of molluscs 188 

Single Shells 188 

Bivalves 195 

Cephalopods – Cuttlefish, Squid and Octopus 208 

5. catalogue of other edible sea creatures 216 

6. note for readers in britain and north america 222 

7. note on mediterranean fish in classical times 225 

8. note on the natural historians 228 

RECIPES 

9. keeping fish fresh 233 

10. cooking fish: a general essay 235 

11. introduction to the recipes 241 

12. recipes from spain 245 

13. recipes from france 265 

14. recipes from italy 300 

15. recipes from greece 340 

16. recipes from turkey 352 

17. recipes from the black sea 362 

18. recipes from tunisia, algeria and morocco 370 

19. recipes from elsewhere in the mediterranean 384 

Bibliography 397 

Index 404 

Measures: Tables of Equivalence 430 


Acknowledgements 

In the first place I must thank the General Fisheries Council for the 

Mediterranean (of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United 

Nations) for allowing me to make full use of the material in their publications, 

especially the comprehensive Catalogue of the Names of Mediterranean Fish, 

Molluscs and Crustaceans, published by them jointly with Vito Bianco Editore 

of Milan. In particular I thank the editor of their Catalogue, the late Professor 

Giorgio Bini, who gave me without stint the benefit of his profound knowledge 

of the subjects with which this book deals. 

My own national authorities have been equally generous. Mr Alwyne 

Wheeler at the Natural History Section of the British Museum combined 

patience in helping me to correct mistakes with enthusiasm in supplying additional 

information. To him and to his colleagues, and to experts in fishery 

institutions and laboratories, especially at Aberdeen, Lowestoft and Burnhamon-Crouch, 

I owe a great deal. 

For advice about the chapter on the Mediterranean Sea I thank Professor 

J.-M. Perès, Director of the Station Marine d’Endoume, and Professor 

François Varlet of the Musée Océanographique at Monaco; and for advice on 

Mediterranean fish in classical times, Dr John Richmond of University 

College, Dublin. 

In Tunisia I had much willing help from M. Mahmoud El Ghoul, Président 

de l’Office National des Pêches, and from his staff at Tabarka, Bizerte, La 

Goulette, Kelibia, Mahdia, Sfax and Houmt Souk as well as in the Central Fish 

Market of Tunis and at sea. I thank too my friends in the Institut 

Océanographique de Salammbô; M. Othman Kark and his staff at the 

Bibliothèque Nationale in the Medina of Tunis; M. Zakaria Ben Mostafa of the 

University of Tunis; and M. and Mme M’hamed Essaafi. 

The late Mr Hugh Whittall of Istanbul distilled his great knowledge of 

Turkish fish into a monograph written to meet my needs. Signor Vito Fodera, 

resident expert of the FAO in Cyprus, presented to me the results of his 

researches there. Dr Radosna Muzinic, of the Oceanographic Institute at Split, 

advised me about fish in Yugoslav waters. Mr Anthony Bonner carried out for 

me a special study of Catalan fish names. 

On the cookery side an acknowledgement hors catégorie, both for inspiration 

and for help, is due to Elizabeth David. And I place blue sashes on the 


10 acknowledgements 

shoulders of Pamela Coate, for research on the Spanish Mediterranean coast; 

Dr Alfred Kühn and again Mr Anthony Bonner for inquiries in Mallorca; 

Mme Jean Ricard and Mme Totte Feissel for practical help in Provence; 

Signora Jeanne Caròla for advice on Neapolitan and other Italian recipes; 

Signor Mario Forcellini of Venice; Signora Elena Spagnol of Milan and Lerici; 

Mrs Delia Lennie of Bari; Mrs Ilse Maijcen and Mrs Marjanović-Radica of 

Split; Mrs Dimitri Gófas of Athens; Mrs Selma Göksel in Turkey; Mrs Helen 

Essely in Beirut; and my original editor, Jillian Norman, for helpful culinary 

research in Menorca and in her own kitchen. 

Many of my former colleagues in the Diplomatic Service, in posts around 

the Mediterranean, and their wives, have put me in touch with local experts or 

obtained information for me. I listed many of them in the Acknowledgements 

in the first edition of this book. The list has since expanded to the point at 

which I must be content with a general expression of thanks to them all. The 

same applies to my former colleagues at NATO headquarters in Brussels, a 

surprisingly good location for the discussion of Mediterranean cookery. 

In working on the fish and recipes of the Black Sea for inclusion in this new 

edition I have received much help from Professor Theodore S. Rass in 

Moscow, from the numerous authorities concerned with fisheries and food in 

Bulgaria, from Maria Johnson and from Molli and John Cloake. 

Beryl Richards kindly volunteered to prepare the typescript of the original 

book; and Sally Bicknell provided its meticulous index. In thanking them 

again I must add thanks to all who have helped with similar services for the 

new edition, and to Cressida Pemberton-Pigott for photographing many of 

the new illustrations. Acknowledgements for the illustrations themselves will 

be found on page 23. 

To all those named above, to all the contributors identified in the recipes 

and for all the help implied in the bibliography, I express my sincere gratitude. 


Introduction 

The main purpose of this book is to help readers who visit or live in the 

Mediterranean region to enjoy fully the seafood there available. Two things are 

needed for this: the ability to identify the various sea creatures, and the knowledge 

how best to prepare each for eating. So half the book consists of catalogues 

for identification, and the rest is largely taken up by Mediterranean 

recipes. The catalogues are intended to be useful also to underwater fishermen; 

and the cookery part has been designed to interest cooks in Britain and 

North and Central America as well as in the Mediterranean. 

Mediterranean fish names are very confusing. I would never have tried to 

map the labyrinth if I had not lived in Tunisia, where every circumstance 

encouraged me. From our house on a cliff near Carthage we daily viewed the 

blue, green or wine-dark waters of the Mediterranean, and saw the fishing 

boats sailing homewards with their catch; and down the road, by a dark inlet 

which was once the port from which Hannibal sailed to conquer Rome, stood 

the great Oceanographic Institute of Salammbô. Above all we were encouraged 

by the friendly interest of Tunisians. Since then I have extended my studies 

considerably. But the forerunner of this book, published in Tunis with a 

Mediterranean-blue cover and a picture of a rascasse upon it, remains the 

kernel of the present work. 

Although I have had much expert help this book is, evidently, the compilation 

of an amateur. I disavow any but a superficial knowledge of natural 

history, linguistics and cuisine. Claiming only a proper degree of enthusiasm 

for my subject, I wish my readers as much pleasure in using the book as I have 

had in writing it; and I invite them all to send me whatever suggestions they 

may have for correcting or improving the contents. 

Amilcar by Carthage alan davidson 

The World’s End 

Ukkel/Uccle 

1972 


Introduction to the New Edition 

This, the first of all the books I have written, has always had a special place in 

my affections and I am really delighted to see it reissued in this handsome new 

edition. 

Way back in the 1960s, in Tunisia, I produced a fairly primitive roneo’d 

booklet to help English-speaking residents and visitors identify the fish in 

Tunisian markets and restaurants, and to benefit the Tunisian equivalent of 

the Red Cross. The booklet served both purposes well, but the interest – partly 

nomenclatural and partly culinary – which I then took in fish might have 

evaporated but for a coincidence. A colleague in the Embassy had known 

Elizabeth David in Cairo during the war. He sent her the booklet, she wrote 

about it in The Spectator, and years later, when it had been long out of print, 

she persuaded her editor at Penguin, Jill Norman, that it should be turned into 

a proper book covering the whole Mediterranean. So in 1972, out came the 

first edition of the present book. 

Now I say a fond thank-you to Penguin, who kept the book in print for a 

quarter of a century; and express my warm thanks to Tom Jaine of Prospect 

Books in Devon and to the Ten Speed Press in Berkeley, California. 

As happened with earlier revised versions of the book, changes have been 

slight. On this occasion I have updated or corrected a few scientific and 

vernacular names, and made a few modest subtractions from and additions to 

the text. Thanks in large part to the generous cooperation of the FAO in 

Rome, many of the species are now far better illustrated than they were 

originally. I warmly thank Helen Saberi for shouldering the burden of organizing 

all these changes. 

The World’s End, Chelsea, London alan davidson 

2002 


The Mediterranean Sea 

Our study of the edible creatures living in the Mediterranean Sea will be more 

interesting and comprehensible if we take a look first at the characteristics of 

that sea itself. 

In oceanic terms the Mediterranean as it exists today is quite small and not 

particularly deep. By area it accounts for roughly 1/140th of the sea water on 

our globe, by volume only 1/355th. Its mean depth is just about 1500 metres, 

compared with figures close to 4000 metres for the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian 

Oceans. But it would be wrong to describe the Mediterranean as shallow; it is 

still of a respectable depth and has a comparatively small area of continental 

shelf (i.e. the shallow areas adjacent to the land, which provide good fishing 

grounds). The map shows this, and that the Adriatic is a fortunate exception. 

Ishould explain here that the general narrowness of the continental shelf in the 

Mediterranean is a highly unfavourable factor for the fish population. The shelf 

is in effect the nursery on which the baby fish must settle in order to grow up. 

But when the shelf is narrow and there are currents flowing away from the 

coast this system does not work properly. What happens in many parts of the 

Mediterranean is that vast numbers of tiny fish find themselves when the time 

comes poised over deep water instead of over the shelf, and perish accordingly. 

As a result of the warm climate, the Mediterranean loses a lot of its water by 

evaporation. And it is not fed generously by rivers, of which there are hardly 

any of importance along most of the North African coast, for example. Indeed 

the loss by evaporation is greater than the gain from rainfall and the influx of 

rivers. Yet the level of the Mediterranean remains constant, and so does its 

salinity level, although the latter varies from one part of the sea to another. 

What keeps the Mediterranean going is the Atlantic. About one million 

cubic metres of Atlantic water flow into the Mediterranean past Gibraltar 

every second. At the same time Mediterranean water flows out into the 

Atlantic, in slightly less volume. These two flows take place at different levels. 

The inflow of Atlantic water, which has a low density, takes place at surface 

level. The outflow of the saltier Mediterranean water, which is denser, takes 

place along the seabed. The net effect of the exchange is to keep the 

Mediterranean stable in level and salinity. 

This happy situation originated in the Pliocene Age, when convulsions of 

the earth opened the Strait of Gibraltar. In the preceding period the 



Mediterranean, almost deprived of any connection with the oceans, had been 

deteriorating into a series of brackish and shrinking lakes in which the marine 

fauna seemed doomed to disappear. The opening of the Strait of Gibraltar literally 

saved the life of the Mediterranean and the Strait has remained its lifeline 

ever since. 

The existence and dimensions of the Strait have other important effects as 

well. Besides being narrow (seven miles) it is also shallow (350 metres and less). 

It thus forms a raised sill between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, leaving 

the Mediterranean almost sealed off in both dimensions. This is why there are 

practically no tides in the Mediterranean, which in turn accounts for many of 

the characteristics of the Mediterranean coastline. But the existence of the sill 

produces another important phenomenon, which bears on the deep waters. 

Wherever you have such a sill separating an enclosed basin such as the 

Mediterranean from the open ocean the temperature of the deep water in the 

basin, right down to the bottom, will tend to be the same as the temperature at 

the lowest point of the sill. As a result all the Mediterranean fauna which live at 

depths below 300 metres or so live in a constant temperature of 13°c. This is in 

striking contrast to the Atlantic temperature which has already fallen to 5°c at 

a depth of 1000 metres. It is therefore easy to see how difficult it would be for 

Atlantic deep-water species to settle in the Mediterranean and the 

Mediterranean is certainly poor in deep-water species. There is a further point 

to be mentioned here. The deep waters of the Atlantic are not only colder, but 

also much richer in nutrients. This difference is another factor which (quite 

apart from new phenomena such as pollution, to which the smaller sea is 

particularly vulnerable) has restricted the fertility of the Mediterranean. 

But the Mediterranean is not only connected with the Atlantic. It is also 

joined to the Black Sea by the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles. Here too there 

is an exchange of waters, but on a less important scale. Here too more flows 

into the Mediterranean than out. The Black Sea water, which is low in salt, can 

be traced as it fans out through the Aegean. 

And there is the Suez Canal. This constitutes a lock-free link with the Gulf of 

Suez and the Red Sea, through which water and fish can pass without hindrance. 

The volume of water which passes is negligible, but the fish traffic is 

important and has become more so in recent years because of a change in the 

salinity of the Bitter Lakes in the Suez Canal. Previously they were too salty for 

certain species of fish which would otherwise have passed through the Canal 

from the Red Sea into the Mediterranean. But the diluting effect of the Canal, 

now 100 years old, has gradually lowered the salinity of the Lakes until it has 

fallen below the threshold which these fish are willing to cross. One early 

example was Siganus rivulatus Forskål, the rabbit fish, which has been establishing 

itself in increasingly large numbers in the eastern Mediterranean; and 

quite a few others are now thriving there, including the Indo-Pacific relations 


the mediterranean sea 15 

of the red mullet, Upeneus asymmetricus Lachner and Upeneus tragula 

Richardson. Further such changes are being recorded regularly. (It has been a 

comforting thought, when surveying the recently intractable problem of 

reopening the Suez Canal to ships and people and goods, that the fish at least 

were using it more and more.) 

This is not the only example of a major change brought about by the works 

of man. Another is the result of the completion of the Aswan Dam, in 1964, in 

Upper Egypt. This has almost halted the annual release of the Nile flood water 

into the Mediterranean. This water, which was rich in phosphates and nitrates, 

had a remarkable fertilizing effect on the waters of the eastern Mediterranean, 

most noticeable near the mouths of the Nile but extending as far north as 

Cyprus. Now of course the flood waters are being stored and used to fertilize 

land instead. But the loss is felt by the fishermen. Where up to 20,000 tons 

of sardine were formerly taken in a year the catch has dropped to below 

1,000 tons. 

The distribution of species in the Mediterranean is however mainly influenced 

by natural phenomena such as variations in depth, in maximum and 

minimum temperatures, and in the availability of plankton. I should say here 

that a very large number of species are found throughout the Mediterranean, 

and in the Black Sea too for that matter, although the Black Sea and 

Mediterranean lists are by no means identical. But it is also true that there are 

quite a few species which are found in the eastern basin only, not only Indo- 

Pacific immigrants but also survivors of an era when the whole Mediterranean 

was warmer than it is now; and equally there are plenty of Atlantic species 

which come some way into the western basin, encouraged no doubt by the 

streams of Atlantic water which flow in past Gibraltar, but are unwilling to 

venture past the Sicilian Channel. 

There is little to choose between the western and eastern basins as regards 

depth. It is to be noted that in both basins the continental shelf and the continental 

slope have been over-exploited, and that these are poorer in the eastern 

basin than in the western one. The variation in salinity between the two basins 

is not significant in terms of the distribution of species. 

Temperature is a more important factor. I have already explained that in the 

deeper waters the temperatures remain remarkably constant. However there is 

a variation of perhaps ½°c from the western to the eastern basin, which is 

quite enough to confine some of the species to the eastern basin and to deter 

others from entering it. Variations in surface temperature are naturally much 

more noticeable. The effect of the north winds which blow down on certain 

parts of the Mediterranean (the mistral of Provence, the bora of the Adriatic 

and the meltem of the Aegean) is important here in chilling the surface waters 

and also in producing a vertical movement of the waters which is favourable 

to the supply of plankton. 



Plankton is the basic food of fish in the larval state, and of pelagic and some 

other fish in the adult state. Where it is lacking the whole fish population is 

affected, because even those fish which do not feed directly on plankton will 

feel its loss at one or two removes. The Black Sea, well fed by great rivers such 

as the Danube, is comparatively rich in plankton. The Mediterranean itself is 

poor. The famous blueness of the Mediterranean and the clarity of its waters 

betray this poverty, and while they attract human beings they signal a marine 

desert to fish. The relative poverty of the Mediterranean, most severe in the 

eastern basin, accounts for the limited population of pelagic fish. The net 

effect of the exchange of waters with the Atlantic is not helpful in this respect. 

Looking ahead to the future, scientists are wondering whether some artificial 

means can be found of creating a greater vertical movement of waters in 

the Mediterranean, since there are nutrients at depths where they cannot be 

utilized. Meanwhile it is unhappily true that the broad trend is for fish supplies 

in the Mediterranean to diminish, although much valuable work is being 

done, often with stimuli and help from the FAO, to offset the disadvantageous 

factors, for instance by improving the cultivation of fish in the numerous 

brackish lagoons around the Mediterranean coast. 

(Right) A coin of Acragas, showing a crab and a fish which might be either a 

mérou or a rascasse. 


Catalogues and Notes 



This drawing of Psetta maxima maeotica, the Black Sea turbot (see page 157) is 

by Thao Soun Vannithone, who has done many of the other drawings in the 

book. 


1. Explanation of the Catalogues 

The catalogues which follow have been constructed on the principle of including 

all the species of fish and other seafood which occur in the Mediterranean 

and which are likely to be met in Mediterranean fish markets or restaurants. 

Although willing to stretch the principle in order to accommodate something 

of special interest, I have generally left out rarities and creatures which are 

hardly worth eating. The list is therefore much shorter than that given in the 

comprehensive and official Catalogue* edited by Professor Bini for the FAO. 

My list is also arranged somewhat differently; but I have sought to keep it in 

reasonably close alignment both with the FAO documents and with the Checklist 

of the fishes of the north-eastern Atlantic and of the Mediterranean published 

by UNESCO. 

A LITTLE SCIENCE 

In the catalogues the name of each species is given first in a Latinized form. 

This is the scientific name. It usually consists of two words, the first indicating 

the genus and the second the species within the genus. Some species are 

shown with more than one Latin name. The explanation is that different 

naturalists have given them different names and that more than one is in 

current use. 

The first scientific name given is the preferred name and is followed by the 

name of the naturalist who bestowed it on the species in question. Sometimes 

the naturalist appears in brackets, sometimes not. The brackets are used to 

show that the specific name bestowed by the naturalist has been retained, but 

that the generic name has been changed since the species is now assigned to a 

different genus. (This business with the brackets is the correct and longestablished 

way of conveying information on this point, but one could wish 

that a method had been chosen less apt to give the layman an impression of 

erratic punctuation or haphazard type-setting.) The reader who would, very 

properly, like to know something about these naturalists, whose work in the 

eighteenth and nineteenth centuries provided the basis for modern 

* See Bibliography, p. 397. Even fuller information, for the specialist, has since been 

provided in the FAO Species Identification Sheets for the Mediterranean and Black Sea, 

issued in 1973 and then, in an improved version, in 1987. 



ichthyology but who normally figure in modern books only as bracketed 

or unbracketed appendages to Latin names, will find what he seeks on 

page 228. 

Where a generic name is followed by the useful abbreviation ‘spp.’, this 

means that reference is being made to a number of species in the genus 

together. This device is employed when it would be tedious and unrewarding 

to list the species separately. 

A species belongs to a genus, which belongs to a family, which belongs to an 

order, which belongs to a class. The narrative passages with which the 

catalogue entries are threaded together will enable the reader to keep track of 

the broader categories if he wishes to do so. 

THE LANGUAGES 

The names of the species are also listed in French, Greek, Italian, Spanish, the 

Tunisian version of Arabic, and Turkish. Many Catalan names and the most 

common Serbo-Croat and Maltese ones are also given, as explained below. I 

thus cover the Mediterranean languages most important for my purpose, 

while reluctantly omitting a few (such as certain other versions of Arabic, and 

Hebrew) which would require treatment in a comprehensive survey. 

The Mediterranean languages vary considerably in the extent to which they 

have names for fish. Italian is the richest – to each species not only one generally 

accepted name but up to fifty or more regional alternative variations! 

French has a high standard of differentiation, and so have Spanish and 

Catalan. Greek is less liberally furnished with specific names. (Greek fishermen 

at any rate do not always have a word for it.) The Turkish language, 

although borrowing from Greek some names in this field, seems to be a shade 

richer. Serbo-Croat is a battlefield in which foreign and indigenous names 

contend for acceptance. Arabic is not rich in fish names, partly because Arabs 

are not great fishermen. 

It is remarkable that many fish names, like other nautical terms, have spread 

across the language barriers. Familiarity with Italian names will be of help in 

Yugoslavia, Malta, Tunisia and Libya, while other names are shared by Greece, 

Turkey and Cyprus, and yet others show little variation from the south of 

France through the Spanish coast to the Arab countries of the Maghreb. 

I usually give only one name for each fish in each language in the main list. 

But where two names, or two variants of one name, are in more or less equally 

common use I give them both. 

The number of species present in the Black Sea is far less than that in the 

Mediterranean itself. It is for this reason that the relatively small number of 

names in Bulgarian, Romanian and Russian have been listed under the heading 

‘Other Names’. The same rubric covers the important Catalan names; the 

principal Maltese and Serbo-Croat names; and a number of local names and 


explanation of the catalogues 21 

variants from Provence, Sicily, etc., selected because they are widely used or 

seem to me to be interesting. 

The principal names which I give coincide for the most part with those 

recommended by the FAO. But I differ from them in some instances. 

Paradoxically, I show fewer English names than they do. This is because I 

prefer not to cite English names which exist only in text-books. If a popular 

English name is lacking – as it surely will be when we are dealing with a fish 

which is neither caught in British waters nor sold in British shops, nor so 

remarkable as to have aroused the attention of the British people in other ways 

– it seems better to use the scientific name or the popular name from another 

language. 

The transliteration of Arabic names is a problem. Tunisian Arabic names are 

usually transliterated according to French practice. I have generally done the 

same, but with some modifications intended to help the English-speaking 

reader. 

The reader is also asked to note that there is not an absolutely standard 

method of transliterating modern Greek; and that the Greek names in this 

book are not all spelled in accordance with Greek pronunciation. Thus the 

Greek letter gamma is usually represented by ‘g’, but ‘gh’ or ‘y’ would often be 

better as a guide to pronunciation. Note too that the Greek letter kai may be 

represented by ‘c’ or ‘k’, so that carcharías on page 27 might appear in another 

book or list as karcharías (or karkharías or karkarías!). 

The spelling of Romanian names is straightforward. Bulgarian and Russian 

names, however, present problems of transliteration which echo these Arabic 

and Greek perplexities. 

Finally, Turkish spelling too is variable; and the undotted ‘i’ which appears 

in many Turkish names is meant to be undotted.* 

* It is also worth noting that the basic Turkish word for fish is balık. Combined with 

another noun, the word is written balı˘gı. Thus kalkan balı˘gı for turbot – kalkan meaning 

shield. The inclusion of balı˘gı is optional in many Turkish fish names. Turbot is commonly 

referred to as kalkan without any addition. 



THE DRAWINGS 

In this second edition the drawings, the sources of which are given on the next 

page, are generally more sophisticated and detailed than they were in the first 

edition. The aim, as before, is to make identification of the species easy; but a 

further aim is to embellish the book with a larger proportion of drawings of 

artistic merit. 

The reader must of course remember two things in using the drawings as a 

means of identification. First, they are not to a uniform scale. Very large fish 

and very small ones appear in these pages to be of similar dimensions. 

Secondly, a fish out of water will not have its fins erect as they are shown in the 

drawings. 

REMARKS 

For each species I have shown the maximum normal length of the adult fish. 

The swords of the swordfish and the tails of the rays are included in the measurements. 

For the purposes of identification it is important to refer constantly 

to information about the size of the fish (remembering, however, that many 

fish are caught before they are fully grown). Information about colour is also 

to be kept in mind – but the colours of many fish vary according to where they 

live and may change when they are taken out of the water. Surer clues to identification 

are provided by such things as the general shape of the fish, the 

number and position of the fins and the course of the lateral line (the line 

running along each side). 

USING THE CATALOGUES 

In each catalogue entry the reader will find, under the heading ‘Cuisine’, a 

summary indication of how the fish or other sea creature can best be cooked, 

and sometimes the outline of a recipe. In most catalogue entries a further 

heading ‘Recipes’ covers signposts to full recipes, in the recipe section, which 

are specifically suitable. 

ABBREVIATIONS 

Besides conventional abbreviations which need no explanation I have used the 

following: Alg., Algeria; Bal., Balearic Islands; Bulg., Bulgarian; Cat., Catalan; 

Eg., Egypt; Eng., English; Fr., French; Gr., Greek; It., Italian; Mor., Morocco; 

Rom., Romanian; Russ., Russian; S.C., Serbo-Croat; Sp., Spanish; Tun., 

Tunisia. 


explanation of the catalogues 23 

Sources of and Acknowledgements for the Drawings 

The frontispiece and other decorative drawings in the book are by Peter Stebbing, who also 

drew the illustrations on pages 185 (upper), 189, 191, 192, 194 (upper), 196, 197 (upper), 199 

(lower), 206 (lower), 207 (upper), 212, 217, 218 and 219 (lower). 

Thao Soun Vannithone, who drew many fish for me in Laos and now lives in England, 

did the following drawings for this new edition: those on pages 18, 45, 46, 47 (lower), 62, 69 

(upper), 90, 94, 107, 110 (lower), 112, 114, 115, 135, 162–3, 179, 194 (lower), 201 (upper right and 

lower), 203, 206 (upper), 210 (upper), 214, 216, 219 (upper), 364, 373 and 375. He also copied 

or modified illustrations from certain other works, which could not be reproduced as they 

stood, using the fine illustrations in Professor Bini’s Atlante dei Pesci delle Coste Italiane, 

Tortonese’s Catalogo dei Pesci del Mare Ligure and the volumes by Banarescu and 

Slastenenko cited in the Bibliography. 

Mr Thosaporn Wongratana kindly contributed two of his hundreds of drawings of 

clupeoid fish: those on pages 43 (upper) and 48. 

The following drawings come from nineteenth-century works. From Bonaparte, the 

volume on fish in his Iconografia della Fauna Italica, 1832: those on pages 36, 91, 97, 142, 143, 

144 and 164. From Cuvier and Valenciennes, Histoire naturelle des Poissons, 1828–49: those 

on pages 75, 77, 85, 104 (lower), 105, 110 (upper) and 111 (upper). From Forbes and Hanley, 

A History of British Mollusca, 1849–53: those on pages 200, 201 (upper left), 202 (both lower 

drawings), 204, 205 and 207 (lower). From Day, The Fishes of Great Britain and Ireland, 

1880–84: those on pages 42, 66 and 78. From the Smithsonian Institution collection of 

drawings done by H. L. Todd towards the end of the century: those on pages 27 (upper), 

100, 102, 141 and 168. 

Twentieth-century drawings, reproduced by kind permission from other publications, 

are as follows. From Poll, Poissons marins (de Belgique): those on pages 28, 29 (upper), 30, 

31, 34, 38 (upper), 44, 53, 55, 57, 60, 61, 64, 68, 69 (lower), 95, 98, 103, 108, 121, 132, 153, 157 

(upper), 159, 161 and 167. From the same author’s four volumes on fish in the series Résultats 

scientifiques de l’Expédition océanographique Belge dans les Eaux côtières Africaines de 

l’Atlantique Sud, 1948-9, published at intervals thereafter: those on pages 43 (lower), 46, 71 

(lower), 79, 84 (upper) and 113. From Common Food Fishes of Taiwan by Yang and Chen, 

that on page 132. From the volumes by Holthuis on crustaceans in Fauna van Nederland, 

1950: those on pages 178, 180 and 183. From the volume by Muus on cephalopods in 

Danmarks Fauna, 1959: those on pages 209, 210 (lower), 211, 213 (upper) and 215. From Leim 

and Scott, Fishes of the Atlantic Coast of Canada, 1966: those on pages 27 (lower) and 131. 

From Marit Christiansen, Decapoda Brachyura (of Scandinavia), 1969: those on pages 185 

(lower) and 186. From my own North Atlantic Seafood, 1979: the drawing by Dolf Boddeke 

on page 172. 

Finally, I wish to thank the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations for 

allowing me to use numerous illustrations from their continuing series of Species 

Identification Sheets for the Mediterranean, to wit: those on pages 32, 39, 40, 47 (upper), 52, 

56, 62 (lower), 63 (upper), 66, 70, 71 (upper), 72, 73, 76, 83, 86–91, 101, 111 (lower), 116, 118, 

122–31, 134, 136, 139, 146–152, 156, 158, 173–6, 187, 197 (lower), 198, 199 (upper), 202 (upper), 

206 (lower) and 212 (lower). 



Red Mullets 

The family Mullidae is chiefly represented in the Mediterranean by the two 

species listed on pages 94 and 95, for both of which red mullet is the basic 

name – or rouget in French and triglia in Italian. The crimson colour is distinctive, 

the taste delicate and unique. There are tiny bones, but the enthusiast 

quickly learns how to eat his red mullet without this disturbing him. 

The family also includes a couple of exotic members in the eastern 

Mediterranean: Upeneus asymmetricus Lachner, the golden-striped goatfish, 

and Upeneus moluccensis (Bleeker), the golden-banded goatfish. These goatfish 

are Indo-pacific species which have migrated into the Mediterranean from 

the Red Sea through the Suez Canal. The members of the family which occur 

in North American waters and in the Caribbean area (where there are at least 

four species) are also called goatfish. The name is appropriate because the 

erectile barbels under the fish’s chin, when in the ‘down’ position, give it a 

goatlike appearance. Mullus barbatus does not come as far north as Britain, 

but Mullus surmuletus does; it is taken in fair quantities in the summer off the 

south coast of England, and indeed is present in the English Channel as a 

breeding population. 

In antiquity the red mullet was one of the most famous and valued fish. Its 

name was trigle in Greek, mullus in Latin.* The Greeks displayed a proper 

respect for and interest in the fish, and regarded it as sacred to Hecate, but 

they did not go mad over it as the Romans seem to have done during the first 

century a.d. Cicero, Horace, Juvenal, Martial, Pliny, Seneca and Suetonius 

have left abundant and interesting testimony to the red mullet fever which 

began to affect wealthy Romans during the last years of the Republic and 

really gripped them in the early Empire. The main symptoms were a preoccupation 

with size, the consequent rise to absurd heights of the prices of large 

specimens, a habit of keeping red mullet in captivity, and the enjoyment of the 

highly specialized aesthetic experience induced by watching the colour of the 

dying fish change. This was a strange pastime. It is not clear that many actually 

engaged in it. Pliny had evidently never witnessed such a scene when he wrote: 

‘The leaders in gastronomy say that a dying mullet shows a large variety of 

changing colours, turning pale with a complicated modification of blushing 

* An interesting source of confusion arose when the great naturalist Linnaeus, finding that 

the red mullet had been classed with the gurnards in a single genus, rightly decided to separate 

them. In doing so he left the name mullus to the red mullets, and transferred trigla to 

the gurnards (see p. 149), contrary to the ancient usage. The two families are very different, 

but the red colour gives them a superficial resemblance and in French, for example, the 

name rouget is often applied to gurnards as well as to red mullets. 


catalogue of fish 93 

scales, at all events if it is looked at when in a glass bowl.’ The other famous 

passage on this subject is in Seneca (q.n. III, 18), who writes as though he had 

taken part in one of these ‘Come-through-and-watch-the-mullet-die-beforewe-sit-down-to-eat’ 

exercises; but he was to open his own veins and may have 

had a morbid fascination even beforehand for the pallor which he described as 

the colour of between life and death. 

As to size, the largest red mullet caught nowadays measure no more than 

40 cm in length and weigh about 3½ or 4 pounds. It is therefore mildly surprising 

on the one hand to read in Pliny that a red mullet of 2 lb is rare and to 

find Horace (Satires II, 2) branding as madness the enthusiasm of a gourmet 

for 3-pound specimens. On the other hand it is startling to find references to 

red mullet of 5 pounds or more. Juvenal (IV, 15) mentions one of nearly 

6 pounds which was sold for 6,000 sesterces. Finally, when three red mullet 

sold together fetched 30,000 sesterces (say £200 each, although many scholars 

would deny that it is feasible to make such a monetary translation) the 

emperor Tiberius was impelled to impose a sumptuary tax on the fish market, 

which may have contributed to the decline of the fever. Macrobius, writing a 

few centuries later, commented with quiet satisfaction that in his day it was 

not difficult to find a red mullet of more than 2 pounds but that the crazy 

prices of earlier days were quite unknown. 

Even so, one may still catch occasionally a whiff of this ancient exaggerated 

enthusiasm. Mrs Roundell, the Cheshire lady whose Practical Cookery Book 

was published in 1898 (and is not to be confused with the well-known, earlier 

work of Mrs Rundell), makes one significant remark on the subject. ‘Fifty 

years ago gourmands used to spend the summers at Weymouth, on purpose to 

eat Red Mullet, and would give as much as two guineas for a fine fish.’ 



RED MULLET Family Mullidae 

Mullus barbatus Linnaeus 

remarks Maximum length 30 cm. The 

colour may vary, but the fish is generally rosy, 

and paler than Mullus surmuletus. Note also 

that its head has a steeper profile. This 

accounts for the Greek name, which means 

‘straight head’. 

In Tunisia the palest specimens may actually 

be called white (rouget blanc, or the Italian/ 

Arabic hybrid name trilia beidha). 

The basic Italian name triglia is, by the way, 

subject to many local variations – tregghia in 

the south, trigghia in Sicily, treggh at Bari, etc. 

A Black Sea version of this species is recognized 

as Mullus barbatus ponticus Essipov, 

French: Rouget barbet/ 

de vase 

Greek: Koutsomoúra 

Italian: Triglia di fango 

Spanish: Salmonete de fango 

Tunisian: Mellou, or Bouqit 

(south) 

Turkish: Barbunya 

Other names: Moll de fang 

(Cat.); Trlja (S.C.); 

Rouget de vase (Tun.); 

Sultan Ibrahim ramleh 

(Leb.) 

known as barbun in Romania and barbun or barbunya in Bulgaria. 

recipes for both red mullets 

Salmonetes con Salsa Romesco, Triglie all’Anconetana, 331 

257 Triglie alla Ligure, 332 

Rougets à la Niçoise, 288 Triglie alla Livornese, 332 

Rougets aux Feuilles de Vigne, Triglie Fredde con Salsa di Menta, 

289 333 

Rougets en Papillote ‘Baumanière’, Psitó Psári, 344 

289 Barboúnia Stó Hartí, 346 

Maaquouda aux Rougets, 377 



RED MULLET Family Mullidae 

Mullus surmuletus Linnaeus 

remarks Maximum length 40 cm. Most 

easily distinguished from the preceding 

species by the stripes on the first dorsal fin. 

This species may also have horizontal yellow 

stripes on its flanks. The colouring varies 

under the water to match the surroundings, 

but out of the water this fish is generally redder 

than the other. Scaling a freshly caught 

specimen will make it even redder. 

cuisine for both mullets. The red mullets, 

especially this one, are among the most highly 

prized fish of the Mediterranean. They are 

also among the few which are commonly 

French: Rouget de roche 

Greek: Barboúni 

Italian: Triglia di scoglio 

Spanish: Salmonete de roca 

Tunisian: Mellou, Bouqit 

Turkish: Tekir 

Other names: Moll roquer 

(Cat.); Trlja (S.C.); Trilia 

hamra, Trilia hajar (Tun., 

hamra means red, hajar of 

the rocks); Sultan Ibrahim 

sakhri (Leb.) 

cooked whole (not gutted). They may be grilled, fried or cooked in the oven. It 

is unusual, but not unknown, for them to be poached or steamed; although 

the Chinese regularly so treat Indo-Pacific fish of the same sort. 

Triglie alla Siciliana is a dish of red mullets which have been marinated for 

half an hour in seasoned olive oil and are then grilled whole and served with 

an unusual orange sauce (for which you need the peel of two oranges, cut into 

strips and blanched; 3 tablespoons each of meat bouillon and white wine, 

250 g/good 1 cup of butter chopped into tiny pieces, the juice of the two 

oranges and the juice of one lemon – the sauce to be served hot). 

Across the Sicilian Channel lies the small Tunisian port of Kelibia, on the 

Cap Bón peninsula. It has interesting antiquities, among which should perhaps 

be counted a group of people with atypical red hair, said to be the 

descendants of the survivors of a shipwreck long ago, who were Irish. The 

Kelibians have their own way of dealing with red mullet. They gut them 

through the gills, leave the fish unscaled, cover them with a coating of fine salt 

and then grill them. 



Sciaenid Fish, the Bluefish, Carangid Fish and Others 

Still in the order Perciformes we come now to three families, Sciaenidae, 

Pomatomidae, Carangidae, which include a number of sizeable and important 

fish. 

The meagre, the first, may be found as far north as the south coast of 

England; but the corb and ombrine stay in warmer waters. The sciaenid fish 

are basically fish of the warm temperate and tropical seas. They are noted for 

having large otoliths (stones in the ears) and sizeable air bladders which males 

can cause to resonate, thus producing a noticeable and characteristic noise. 

The many species which inhabit North American waters are for this reason 

mostly called croakers and drums or drumfish. 

The bluefish is not present in British waters, but is the same species as the 

famous bluefish of the Atlantic coast of North America. It is a large and 

excellent fish, which is highly esteemed in Turkey, but is not so well known in 

many other Mediterranean countries where the opportunities for catching it 

are less good. 

The family Carangidae is a mixed group – mixed, anyway, to the layman’s 

eye – in which we find the genera Trachurus (a sort of bogus mackerel, but not 

as bad as one might think from some of their uncomplimentary names), 

Seriola (the splendid amberjack), Lichia, Trachinotus and Naucrates (the pilot 

fish). A common feature is the presence – obvious or unobtrusive – of two 

little spines in front of the anal fin. The Carangidae are widely distributed in 

all the tropical and temperate oceans, and are at their most abundant and 

diverse in the warmest waters. Of the species listed, only the horse mackerel 

(p. 101) is common in British waters. The pilot fish (p. 103) is an occasional 

visitor. It is also to be found on both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North 

America. And North Americans generally have a large variety of Carangidae 

available, to which the common names scad and jack, amberjack, runner and 

pompano apply. 



MEAGRE Family Sciaenidae 

Argyrosomus regius (Asso) 

remarks Maximum length 200 cm. A large, 

hungry fish, which makes a noise in the water, 

and which used to be classified as Sciaena 

aquila. Sciaena is a Greek word indicating a 

dark colour, while aquila (eagle) stands for 

voracity. The Italian and Turkish names refer 

to the characteristic golden throat of this fish. 

cuisine The cook may treat this fish like a 

particularly large sea bass (p. 68), which it 

resembles. The flesh is white and free of 

bones, and good cold as well as hot. 

French: Maigre 

Greek: Mayático aetós 

Italian: Bocca d’oro 

Spanish: Corvina 

Tunisian: Lej 

Turkish: Sarıa©ız 

Other names: Sciène (Fr.); 

Aetós (Gr.); Pei rei 

(Languedoc); Figoun 

(Provence); Reig (Cat.) 

recipes 

Pescado de Bandera Español, Athenaikí Mayonaísa, 341 

260 



Sciaena umbra Linnaeus Family Sciaenidae 

remarks Maximum length 50 cm. A smaller 

fish than the meagre, but deeper in the body. 

In Turkey they extract two white balls 

(otoliths) from the head and use them as an 

old wives’ remedy for urinary troubles. A 

French friend prefers to collect otoliths from 

the ombrine (see next page), and makes them 

into necklaces. 

The species occurs throughout the 

Mediterranean, the Black Sea and the Azov 

Sea. It likes a rocky habitat and is active at 

night rather than by day. 

I am told that alternative Turkish names for 

French: Corb 

Greek: Skiós 

Italian: Corvo 

Spanish: Corvallo 

Tunisian: Ghrab 

Turkish: E¸skina 

Other names: Corbeau, 

Cotère, Poisson juif, Peï 

coua (all Fr.); Corba 

(Cat.); Escorball (Bal.); 

Vranac, Konj (S.C.); 

Khenena (Eg.) 

the species are halili and degirmenci. The latter means miller and refers to the 

otoliths, which are imaginatively supposed to resemble a miller’s grinding 

stones. 

cuisine Good fried in slices. Try serving with a béchamel sauce with egg 

yolk, lemon juice and chopped tarragon beaten in. 

It is not often that one hears of a recipe being invented. But such a claim is 

recorded by Maria Nencioli, in Cacciucco, on behalf of an Italian naval officer. 

‘With this simple but delicious recipe of his own creation the Commandante 

della Corvetta Marcello Bertini used to cook corb obtained by trawler fishermen 

of the Isola del Giglio, while minesweeping in the insidious and fishy 

seas.’ Disarmed by this evocative introduction, the reader will be willing by 

intuition or experiment to invest the brief instructions which follow with the 

necessary precision. Take one good corb steak for each person. Fry a good 

quantity of onion in plenty of olive oil and place the steaks therein. Wet them 

with some really good broth and a moderate amount of white wine. Add salt 

and pepper. Cook until done. Serve the result as it is, or with a piquant sauce 

of your choice and with mashed potatoes and green peas or lentils. 



Umbrina cirrosa (Linnaeus) Family Sciaenidae 

remarks Maximum length 70 cm. Has a 

yellowish back and sides, with up to thirty 

thin diagonal wavy lines, blue bordered with 

black, on each side. The ombrine is found 

throughout the Mediterranean and, rarely, in 

the Black and Azov Seas. It favours rocky 

coastal areas. 

The smaller species Umbrina canariensis 

Valenciennes has a deeper body and big eyes, 

and may be encountered in the western 

Mediterranean, and along the southern coast. 

French: Ombrine 

Greek: Mylokópi 

Italian: Ombrina 

Spanish: Verrugato 

Tunisian: Kharbo, or Baghla 

(south) 

Turkish: Minakop, Kötek 

Other names: Chraú or 

Dainé (Midi); Lumbrina 

(Corsica); Corball (Cat.); 

(Corsica); Kurjal (S.C.); 

Gurbell (Malta) 

cuisine A good fish, which may be compared 

to (or substituted for) sea bass (p. 68). Grill, fry in slices, bake, or use in 

a fish couscous. 

Berthelot, the French Consul in the Canary Isles who published his account 

of Mediterranean fisheries in 1868 (see Bibliography), makes much of the 

value which the head (by which should be understood head and shoulders) of 

an ombrine used to have in Rome. He recalls the tale of Tamisio, a gastronomic 

parasite who stationed a runner at the market to keep him informed 

about who bought the best, so that he could invite himself to dinner at the 

appropriate house. This unfortunate once spent a whole day tracking the head 

of an ombrine. He first saw it carried to the Capitol. Thence it was carried out 

before his eyes and taken to Cardinal Riario, the nephew of Pope Sixtus IV. 

However, the Cardinal only accepted the succulent offering in order to send it 

as a present to his friend Frédéric Saint-Séverin, who despatched it in turn as a 

gift to the banker Chigi, on a platter decorated with flowers. Chigi gave it to 

his mistress, a fashionable courtesan; and it was at her house that poor 

Tamisio, after having sweated along practically every street of Rome, was 

finally able to feast on the object of his greed. (Let a good story not be spoiled 

by the observation that it was almost certainly a head of Corvina nigra, p. 98, 

which Tamisio thus chased.) 



BLUEFISH Family Pomatomidae 

Pomatomus saltatrix (Linnaeus) 

remarks Maximum length about 110 cm, 

common length up to 60 cm. The back is 

blue-green. A fish of the high seas which 

approaches the coasts in summer. The Spanish 

(and similar Portuguese) name can cause 

confusion – a London importer once took a 

consignment of bluefish under the impression 

that they were two-pound anchovies! 

French: Tassergal 

Greek: Gofári 

Italian: Pesce serra 

Spanish: Anjova 

Tunisian: Karradh 

Turkish: Lüfer * 

Other names: Serre (Tun.); 

Lefer (Bulg.); Lufar 

(Rom.) 

cuisine A good fish. Grill, bake or poach.** 

The Turkish practice is to grill the fish on charcoal and serve it with a sauce of 

lemon and parsley, or to cook smaller specimens en papillote with finely 

chopped onion, tomato slices, a squeeze of lemon juice, olive oil, a bay leaf and 

seasoning. 

* There are five Turkish names for this fish, bestowed according to size, thus: – tiny: defne 

yaprak (bay leaf); small: çinakop; larger: sarı kanat (yellow wing); at its prime: lüfer; very 

large: kofana. This precise nomenclature reflects the fact that the fish is well known in 

Turkey. It is sometimes taken in great quantities near Istanbul in January, but the regular 

season for it is the period of the southward migration, i.e. October to December, when it is 

fished with line and lamp. 

** For further suggestions and American recipes for this transatlantic species, see my North 

Atlantic Seafood. 


ecipes from france 269 

La Bourride 

‘Bourride is one of the great dishes of Provence. There are various different 

ways of presenting it but the essential characteristic is that aïoli or garlicflavoured 

mayonnaise is added to the stock in which the fish has cooked to 

make a beautiful smooth pale yellow sauce and of this there must be plenty, 

for it is the main point of the dish. 

‘M. Bérot, once chef des cuisines on the Île de France – a liner celebrated for 

its good cooking – served us his own version of this dish at the Escale, a 

hospitable and charming restaurant at Carry-le-Rouet, a little seaside place 

west of Marseille. 

‘The ingredients you need for four people are 4 fine thick fillets of a rather 

fleshy white fish. M. Bérot uses baudroie or angler-fish, but at home I have 

made the dish with fillets of John Dory, of turbot, of brill (barbue). 

‘In any case, whatever fish you choose, be sure to get the head and the 

carcase with your fillets. Apart from these you need a couple of leeks, a lemon, 

a tablespoon of wine vinegar, at least 4 cloves of garlic, 2 or 3 egg yolks, about 

one-third of a pint of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of cream, and seasonings. 

To accompany the bourride you need plain boiled new potatoes and slices 

of French bread fried in oil. 

‘First make your stock by putting the head and carcase of the fish into a 

saucepan with a sliced leek, a few parsley stalks, a teaspoon of salt, a slice of 

lemon, the wine vinegar and about 1¼ pints of water. Let all this simmer 

gently for 25 to 30 minutes. Then strain it. 

‘While it is cooking make your aïoli with the egg yolks, 3 cloves of garlic and 

olive oil as explained . . . [overleaf]. 

‘Now put a tablespoon of olive oil and the white of the second leek, finely 

sliced, into the largest shallow metal or other fireproof pan you have; let it 

heat, add the spare clove of garlic, crushed; put in the lightly seasoned fillets; 

cover with the stock; let them gently poach for 15 to 25 minutes, according to 

how thick they are. 

‘Have ready warming a big serving dish; take the fillets from the pan with a 

fish slice and lay them in the dish; cover them and put them in a low oven to 

keep warm. 

‘Reduce the stock in your pan by letting it boil as fast as possible until there 

is only about a third of the original quantity left. Now stir in the cream and let 

it bubble a few seconds. 

‘Have your aïoli ready in a big bowl or a jug over which you can fit a conical 

or other sauce sieve. Through this pour your hot sauce; quickly stir and amalgamate 

it with the aïoli. It should all turn out about the consistency of thick 

cream. Pour it over your fish fillets. On top strew a little chopped parsley and 

the dish is ready . . .. 



‘To make the aïoli sauce: 

‘Allow roughly 2 large cloves of garlic per person and, for eight people, the 

yolks of 3 eggs and nearly a pint of very good quality olive oil – failing 

Provençal olive oil, the best Italian or Spanish will do. Crush the peeled garlic 

in a mortar until it is reduced absolutely to pulp. Add the yolks and a pinch of 

salt. Stir with a wooden spoon. When the eggs and garlic are well amalgamated, 

start adding the oil, very slowly at first, drop by drop, until the aïoli 

begins to thicken. This takes longer than with a straightforward mayonnaise 

because the garlic has thinned the yolks to a certain extent. When about half 

the oil has been used, the aïoli should be a very thick mass, and the oil can 

now be added in a slow but steady stream. The sauce gets thicker and thicker, 

and this is as it should be; a good aïoli is practically solid. Add a very little 

lemon juice at the end, and serve the sauce either in the kitchen mortar in 

which you have made it or piled up in a small salad bowl. Should the aïoli 

separate through the oil having been added too fast, put a fresh yolk into 

another bowl and gradually add the curdled mixture to it. The aïoli then 

comes back to life.’ 

(Elizabeth David, French Provincial Cooking) 

Oursinado 

Sea-urchins serves six 

This is one of the best of the fish-plus-soup dishes, but it is not to be 

attempted unless you can obtain lots of sea-urchins (p. 217). 

Buy 20 of them. Buy too 1 kg (2¼ lb) of slices of angler-fish (p. 168), sea bass 

(p. 68), daurade (p. 75), sole (pp. 162–4) or other good white fish. Take care as 

you go home to advertise your intentions, and indeed imply the prowess 

which you hope to display, by carrying the oursins in a fisherman’s open 

basket, which is in any case the most practical method of transporting so 

many large and delicately spiked creatures. 

The cleaned pieces of fish are put in a casserole with an onion and a carrot, 

both finely chopped, a little parsley and a bouquet garni or bay leaf. Pour over 

all this 225 ml (8 fl oz) of white wine and ½ litre (17½ fl oz) of water. Season 

with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, lower the heat, cover and cook gently 

for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces of fish. 

While the fish is cooking, cut open the oursins and remove the corals. They 

should fill a wineglass. In a second casserole mix 50 g (2 oz) of butter with 6 

egg-yolks. By this time casserole No. 1 will be standing at the side of the stove, 

as the fish will be cooked. Remove from it about two-thirds of broth and add 

this little by little to the butter and egg mixture in casserole No. 2. Place 

casserole No. 2 in a bain-marie (i.e. stand it in something bigger in which 



water is boiling) and beat the contents to a cream. To this cream add the 

oursin corals, and continue beating until you have a smooth mixture. 

Cut some neat slices of bread of a good thickness (say 1 cm, i.e. ½") and lay 

these in the bottom of a serving-dish of sufficient depth. Pour over them 

(through a strainer) the remaining fish broth from casserole No. 1, which they 

will soak up. Then pour over them the creamy oursin mixture. Serve the pieces 

of fish separately but simultaneously. 

Le Poupeton 

Dealing with the left-over bouillabaisse 

Dr Raymond Boissier, one of the 70 French doctors who contributed to Le 

Trésor de la Cuisine du Bassin Méditerranéen, a compilation which had the 

honour of being revised by Prosper Montagné, provides this recipe for what 

he admits to be a rather unlikely contingency. But it may be used to advantage 

for almost any left-over fish if you first marinate it briefly in a little olive oil, 

with Provençal herbs. 

‘Poupeton makes possible the utilisation of the remains of bouillabaisse, 

after the departure of guests who have been so inconsiderate as not to lick the 

bottom of the platter. 

‘Retrieve with reverence whatever you can find in the way of remains of the 

flesh of red mullet, rascasses, John Dory and other marine creatures; and 

increase the booty with forgotten scraps of angler-fish tail or of crustaceans 

which escaped being ravaged at table. 

‘Pound this in a mortar with one and a half tablespoonfuls of cream and 

three times the quantity of a thick panade [a binding mixture made from, e.g., 

the crumb of bread and milk]. 

‘When all this is perfectly mixed, you will add in succession three yolks of 

eggs, one and a half tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan, three whites of eggs 

beaten into a fluff, and one truffle and one cèpe finely chopped. Season lightly. 

‘The worst is over. Have still a little courage. 

‘It remains to butter a mould. Carefully put the preparation into this. Place 

it in a bain-marie in the oven and cook it for half an hour. 

‘When this time has passed, unmould and serve it in a ring of tomatoes 

sautéed in the simplest way possible, in olive oil, in a frying-pan. 

‘A white Mercurol wine is not out of place. 

‘The recipe comes from the lower Rhône and is used all along the Provençal 

coast.’ 



Soupe de Roche (or Soupe de Poissons de Marseille) 

Marseille fish soup serves six 

This is a real soup, not a soup plus fish-course combined. I prefer it to the 

more complicated dishes and give it very high marks indeed. It was our 

favourite fish soup when we were living in Tunis. 

All the good ladies of Marseille, not to mention their husbands, have their 

own ideas about exactly how to prepare Soupe de Roche. But the general principles 

are clear enough. The main one is that you use a large variety of small 

rockfish, none of which survives to be served separately as happens with at 

least some of the fish used in making bouillabaisse. And apart from standard 

ingredients you will need leeks; and fennel and saffron. Provided that you have 

these last ingredients, and access to a fish market where small rockfish are 

deemed worth marketing, you can make this soup anywhere. (It is, by the way, 

not true, as the Marseillais believe, that the right combination of rockfish is 

found only in the Golfe du Lion.) 

choice of fish Small specimens of any or all of the following: rascasses 

(especially those on p. 146, which are not much good for anything else); 

wrasses (pp. 110–12 – any will do, but try to include Coris julis, p. 111) and 

conger eel (p. 55). 

procedure Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large fireproof soup pot. 

Add to this the white part of 2 leeks and 1 onion, finely chopped or sliced; 

allow to cook briefly; then add 2 large tomatoes (peeled and chopped) and stir 

the mixture around. Next add 2 crushed cloves of garlic, a sprig or two of 

fennel and of parsley and some thyme; a bay leaf and a piece of orange peel 

(these last items are optional); salt and pepper and almost 2 litres (70 fl oz) of 

water. The fish go in next, 1½ kg (3¼ lb) of them, gutted and washed as 

necessary, the water is brought to the boil and kept boiling vigorously for 15 

minutes. Now pass the whole boiling through a fine sieve (lined with muslin 

to catch the tiny bones), rubbing it with a wooden spoon to extract every drop 

of juice from the fish. (An alternative is to sieve it twice, first roughly then 

finely.) Return the bouillon to the soup pot, bring it to the boil, add ½ kg (1 lb 

2 oz) of pasta and a pinch of saffron and cook gently until the pasta is done. 

Serve with rouille (p. 266), croûtons and grated cheese. 



Poutine, Nonnat and Melet 

I treat all these tiny fish together because they are often confused. I was not 

sure about them myself until I had authoritative advice from the Musée 

Océanographique at Monaco. 

Sardines (p. 43) and anchovies (p. 48) in their larval state are known in 

Provence as poutine – poutine nue (or poutina nuda) so long as they remain 

without scales, and poutine habillée (or poutina vestida) when the scales 

appear. These minute fish (hundreds to the pound) are consumed in large 

quantities by the people of Nice and thereabouts when they appear in the early 

part of the year. In other parts of France it would be illegal to fish for them, 

but the Alpes-Maritimes is a region where the fishery regulations of Sardinia 

have continued to apply even after the Comté de Nice was reincorporated in 

France in 1860. The poutine which escape this fate are known as palailles or 

palaillettes in the next stage of their growth. 

Nonnats are tiny transparent gobies which even in their adult life do not 

exceed a length of more than a few centimetres. 

Melet is the name for small sand-smelt (p. 139) and for the garum-type 

preparation made from them – cf. p. 226. 

Poutine and nonnat are used in soups, beignets and omelettes. Fishermen in 

the area of Nice make a Soupe de Nonnat or de Poutine as follows. They 

brown a little chopped onion and garlic in olive oil, then add water (say, a 

litre, 35 fl oz, for five people), salt and a bouquet garni. Having brought all this 

to the boil they put in pasta of their choice, which will be a fine one such as 

that called cheveux d’ange. Once the pasta is cooked, they add the poutine or 

nonnat (50 g, or 2 oz, for each person). After a few minutes’ more boiling they 

remove the pot from the fire, add a pinch of saffron and serve the soup with 

grated cheese. 

To make an Omelette à la Poutine, simply add the poutine to the egg mixture 

with chopped garlic and parsley, and seasoning, and proceed as usual. 

This is very good, and a relatively inexpensive way of enjoying poutine. The 

dish is known in Spain too (cf. p. 256). 

Poutine also serve to make a garum-type preparation known as pissalat (peï 

salat). If this is mixed with a purée of onions and spread on a thin disc of 

baker’s dough, topped with black olives and baked in a very slow oven for half 

an hour, the result is pissaladiera (often sold ready made, and with fillets of 

tinned anchovy on top of the onion purée instead of pissalat mixed in with it). 

Melets may be big enough for frying. Sprinkle them with vinegar, dredge 

them with flour and fry them in very hot oil just long enough to turn them 

golden-brown. This is a Friture de Melets. 



Sartañado 

This is the Provençal name for a dish of very small fish fried in hot olive oil. It 

may also be called sartagnade or crespeou. Sartan is the Provençal name for a 

frying-pan. 

The fish to be used, with their page numbers and local names, are the 

following: 

small sardines, 42, 43, sardinettes 

small anchovies, 48, petits anchois 

sand-smelts, 139, siouclet 

small picarel, 90, 91, jarretons 

shrimps, 172, petites crevettes grises, carambots 

The fish are floured and salted, and when the oil in the pan is hot they are 

ranged in it close together, so that as they cook they will coalesce into a flat 

round mass like an omelette or pancake (the alternative name crespeou comes 

from crêpe). Set them off over a fierce flame. They must not stick to the 

bottom of the pan, and it may be necessary to shake the pan slightly over the 

flame to avoid this. But you must not stir or poke the fish, since this would 

prevent their adhering to each other. When the fish are well-coloured on the 

underside, take a spatula such as you would use for an omelette and turn the 

whole mass over. Brown the other side, then transfer your flat cake of cooked 

fish to a hot serving platter, put 2 tablespoonfuls of wine vinegar into the pan 

and let it boil for a moment, pour this over the fish, and start eating. 

Salade Antiboise 

A fish salad from Antibes 

Escudier, whose recipe this is, explains that the fish may be what you have left 

over from another dish, or alternatively slices of whiting (p. 61) or conger eel 

(p. 55) bought especially for the salad. In either event the fish should have been 

cooked in a court-bouillon, not for too long, however, since it must be firm 

enough to be cut up into small cubes about the size of dice. I recommend the 

conger myself (or angler-fish, p. 168). 

The cubes of fish are mixed with capers and with the following vegetables 

cut up into quarters or rounds: cornichons (pickled baby cucumbers), fresh 

cucumber, boiled potatoes, cooked beetroot. Add a few tinned anchovy fillets, 

roughly chopped. Dress with olive oil, either vinegar or lemon juice, salt and 

pepper. 



Salade Niçoise serves eight as an hors d’oeuvre, four as a main course 

This is a delicious summer dish and easy to prepare, so we eat it often, following 

this prescription: 

12 lettuce leaves 4 hard-boiled eggs, cut into 

½ onion, cut into thin rings quarters 

6 tomatoes, cut into quarters 250 g (9 oz) canned tuna fish, in 

and then cut in half small bits or chunks 

1 green pepper, seeded and cut 12 fillets of anchovy, canned 

into thin strips for the dressing: 

4 celery sticks, chopped 3 tbs wine vinegar 

roughly and including some 1½ tsp Dijon or other French 

leaves mustard 

12 black olives 4 pinches of salt 

12 green olives 225 ml (8 fl oz) olive oil 

Arrange the ingredients in a large bowl or platter (children are good at this, 

and enjoy the ritual of counting out the olives and so on, although of course 

the exact quantities are not really important), mix the dressing in a bowl and 

pour it over. Serve with crisp French bread. 

Alose à l’Oseille 

Shad with sorrel 

The alose or shad (p. 46) is a bony fish, and various traditional ways of preparing 

it are supposed to result in some of the tiresome small bones melting away. 

Some believe that cognac will best perform this function, as in the recipe on 

the next page. Others believe that sorrel does the trick, by virtue of what one 

English author has called ‘its grateful acidity’. The matter is dubious, although 

there is some experimental evidence to support the idea. What is certain is 

that sorrel goes very well with shad. 

A possible procedure is to cook the shad whole in a court-bouillon with the 

addition of some strips of lemon peel, and then to serve it on a bed of sorrel 

purée. To make the purée you cook a generous quantity of sorrel in the same 

way as you cook spinach (hardly any water) and then put it through a sieve 

and combine it with 2 egg-yolks, a little French tarragon mustard, a pinch of 

nutmeg and (optional) a couple of tablespoonfuls of finely chopped raw sorrel 

and tarragon leaves. 



l’Alose à la Tressanaise 

Shad cooked in the style of the village of Tressan serves six 

Les Plats régionaux de France by Austin de Croze was one of the first (1928) and 

best compilations of its kind. The original, printed on paper of atrocious quality, 

has for long been unobtainable; but a handsome facsimile edition 

appeared in 1977 under the imprint of Daniel Morcrette. 

Austin de Croze observes that the shad is ‘a real packet of spiny bones’, yet 

has flesh of unrivalled quality. Hence the importance of knowing how to 

prepare it correctly. This recipe was furnished by M. Francis Marre, Chimiste- 

Expert at the Court of Appeal in Paris, whose home was at Tressan, where shad 

fished in the Hérault are prepared in this way. 

Catch a shad weighing nearly 1½ kg (3¼ lb) and dip it into boiling water for 

a minute as soon as possible after capture. Scale it with care, cut off fins, tail 

and head, open the belly with a pair of scissors and gut the fish completely. 

Wash the inside very carefully with water to which vinegar has been added. 

Next, remove the backbone, cut the fish into sections about 8 to 10 cm (3" to 

4") in thickness and leave these to soak for two hours, also in water to which 

vinegar has been added. 

Take an earthenware marmite with a close-fitting lid, line the bottom with 

strips of bacon and add the shad steaks, which should come up to about two 

thirds of the height of the vessel. Add also 100 g (3½ oz) of ham (not smoked), 

cut into small cubes; 75 g (2½ oz) of fresh pork rind; 8 bay leaves and a 

bouquet garni; salt and pepper to taste; two sliced lemons; a wineglassful 

(150 ml or 5 fl oz) of good brandy; and ½ litre (17½ fl oz) dry white wine. Put 

the cover on the marmite, sealing it down with bread dough, and take it to the 

bread-baker, in whose oven it should remain for at least 8 hours. At the end of 

this time you will find that the small bones have ‘melted’ and that your fish, 

reposing in a thick jelly, constitutes ‘as delicious a dish as you could dream of 

having’. (Most readers will have to use their own oven, which should be set at 

very slow – 240°f, 115°c, gas ¼.) 

l’Anchoïade 

1. The basic recipe for anchoïade calls for salted anchovies (the kind which you 

buy from a barrel or a huge can); the other main ingredient is stale bread – 

which of course is always there when you don’t need it and vice versa. 

Fortunately this recipe is so simple that you can use it at short notice when 

stale bread happens to be at hand. (Or you can do what is often done in 

Provence – leave out the bread altogether, using the anchovy mixture as a dip 

to be eaten with crudités such as carrot or celery sticks, for dunking cubes of 

boiled potato, or to go with hard-boiled eggs.) 



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Index of Names of Fish, Crustaceans 

Molluscs, etc. in the Catalogues 

(This index includes the scientific names, printed in italic, and all other names of species 

cited in the text, except for a few which do not occur in the Mediterranean and are 

mentioned only incidentally. Jennifer Davidson.) 

abadèche rouge 72 

abalone 189 

abichón 139 

abou zoubara 139 

Acanthocardia aculeata 202; A. echinata 202; 

A. tuberculata 202 

acciuga 48 

a · c · cola 102 

achinós 217 

achiváda 205 

Acipenser gueldenstaedti colchicus 38, 39 

Acipenseridae 37 ff. 

Acipenser naccarii 38; A. ruthenus 38; 

A. stellatus 40; A. sturio 38 

açivades 202 

Actinia equina 218 

acucu 144 

Aequipecten opercularis 200, 201 

aetós 97 

aghreb bahr 184 

agriòsalpa 118 

aguglia 57; a. imperiale 131; a. pelerana 131 

aguja 57 

agulia 31 

agulio 57 

agulla 57 

agullat 31 

ahtapot 213, 214, 215; deli a. 215 

aiguillat commun 31 

aiguille 57 

ain fi garnou 27 

ajula 84 

akipissios 40 

akya 104 

alaccia 43; a. africana 43 

alacha 43 

aladroc 48 

alalonga 128 

alatxa 43 

albacora 128 

albacore 128 

alepedo 190 

alice 48 

alifranciu 143 

aligote 86 

aliótis 189 

alitán 28 

allache 43; a. grande 43 

allis shad 45 

allisson 217 

almeja fina 204 

almejón brillante 206 

almendra de mar 196 

alosa 45 

Alosa alosa 45; A. caspia 46; A. caspia 

nordmanni 46, 47; A. fallax nilotica 45; 

A. pontica 46 

alose feinte 45 

altınbas kefal 143 

amande de mer 196 

amberjack 96 

ammiru 173 

Ammodytidae 113 

amploia 44 

amplovo 48 

anchoa 48 

anchoïo 48 

anchois 48 

anchovy 41, 48 

ancidda 53 

anemone, sea 188; beadlet a. 218; snake-locks 

a. 218 

Anemonia sulcata 218 

anfós 70 

anfounsou 70 

ange de mer 32 

angel fish 32 

angel-shark 26, 32 

angelote 32 

ánghelos 32 

angler-fish 165,168 

anguidda 53 

anguila 53 

anguilla 50, 53 

Anguilla anguilla 53 

anguille 53; a. argentée 50 

Anguillidae 50, 53 

angulas 53 

anjova 100 

annular sea bream 82 

anshouwa 48 

anxova 48 

aoureillo de cat 189 

Aphanopus carbo 117 

Aphia minuta 136 

Aporrhais pespelecani 194 

aragno 115 

aragosta 180 


index 405 

araignée 115,186 

araña 115 

aranya blanca 114; a. de cap negre 115; 

a. fragata 115 

arapède 190 

arbitán 63 

arbun 86 

Arca de Nóe 196 

Arca di Noè 196 

Arca noae 196 

arcella 202 

Arche de Noé 196 

Arcidae 196 

arete 152 

argentina 49 

Argentina sphyraena 49 

argentine 41, 49 

Argentinidae 41, 49 

Argyrosomus regius 97 

Aristediae 175 

Aristeomorpha foliacea 175 

Aristeus antennatus 175 

armado 153 

armat 153 

arnóglossa 159 

Arnoglossus imperialis 155; A. kessleri 155; 

A. laterna 159; A. thori 159 

aroussa 112 

arsella 206 

Arthropoda 169 

arznella 91 

ase 153 

asıl hani 73 

asineddu 91 

Aspitrigla cuculus 152; A. obscura 152 

assili 42 

astakós 178, 180 

astice 178 

atherina, atherína 139 

Atherina boyeri 139, A. hepsetus 139; 

A. presbyter 139 

atherine 139 

Atherinidae 137, 139 

Atherinomorus lacunosus 139 

atún 127; a. blanco 128 

Aulopus filamentosus 52 

auriglia de San Pietro 189 

aurin 143 

auriou 121 

Auxis rochei 130 

ayı ıstakozu 181; a. pavuryası 182 

ayna 186 

baboso 134 

bacaladilla 60 

bacalao 59 

bacaliar 61 

bacaliaráki síko 60 

bacaliáros 61, 64 

baccalá 59; b. secco 59 

bacoreta 129 

bacoréte 129 

badèche72 

baghla 99 

baila 69 

bakalyaro 60, 61 

balamit 123, 130 

balaou 56 

balas 79 

balay 155, 158 

baldufa 191 

baliste 167 

Balistes carolinensis 167 

Balistidae 165, 167 

bar 67, 68; b. tacheté 69 

barboúni 95 

barbue 156 

barbun 94 

barbunya 94 

barracuda 137, 138 

barratet 190 

barrinaire 113 

bass, sea b. 67, 68; stone b. 67, 69 

baudroie 168 

baveuse 134 

bavosa 134 

bean clam 195 

bécassine de mer 57 

bejel 150 

Belone belone 57; B. belone euxini 57 

Belonidae 56, 57 

beluga 40; b. sturgeon 40 

belugo 87 

benekli kırlangıç 151 

berberecho (verde) 202 

berlam 64 

Bernard l’ermite 188 

bertorella 63 

Beryx decadactylus 65 

besuc 86 

besugo 87 

beuda 204 

bézuque 86 

bianchetti 42 

biciok 135 

bigeran 141 

bigorneau 191 

bille 107 

billem 115, 116; b. kbir 114; b. sghir 114 

billfish 56 

biou 191 

bis 122 

bisato 53 

bisso 122 

bitoum 142 

bivalves 195 ff. 

black sea bream 89 

Black Sea salmon trout 49 

Black Sea turbot 18, 157 

blade 85 



Blenniidae 133, 134 

blenny 133,134; rock b. 134 

bloody cockle 202 

blue crab 183 

blue ling 63 

blue shark 26 

blue whiting 60 

bluefish 96, 100 

blue-mouth 148 

boba 83 

bocca d’oro 97 

bocca-in-cielo 116 

boccanegra 29 

boccanera 29 

böcek 180 

bodec 146 

bodeljka 147 

bodoletti 191 

bœuf 116 

boga 83 

bogaravell 87 

bogaravelle 87 

bogavante 178 

bogue 74, 83 

Bolinus brandaris 192 

bonita 130 

bonite à dos rayé 123; b. à ventre rayé 130; 

b. blanche 124; b. plate 124 

bonito 120, 123; Atlantic b. 123; 

oceanic b. 130 

bonitol 123 

bonitou 130 

Boops boops 83 

boquerón 48 

borracho 151 

bosega 144 

boseghetta 144 

boseghin 144 

bot 167 

Bothidae 154, 159 

Bothus podas podas 159 

botolo 142 

bou chaïara 139 

bou keshesh aghel 146; b. keshesh ahmar 147 

bou sif 132 

bouchafka 141 

boucot 173 

bouga 83 

boughill 135 

bouma 107 

bouqit 94, 95 

bouquet 173 

bouri 141,144; b. sudani 144 

bourrass 77 

Brama brama 108 

Bramidae 106, 108 

branzino 68 

bream, Ray’s 108 

bream, sea 74, 77; annular s. b. 82; black s. b. 

74, 89; blackspot s.b. 87; blue-spotted s. b. 

87; bronze s. b. 86; gilt-head s. b. 75; red 

s. b. 74, 87; saddled s. b. 85; sheepshead s. b. 

84; Spanish s. b. 86; striped s. b. 84; 

two-banded s. b. 80; white s.b. 81 

breca 86 

brème de mer 74, 108 

brgljun 48 

b’rgouth bahr 172 

brill 154, 156 

brisling 44 

brochet de mer 138 

bronze grouper 71 

brótola 62; b. de roca 62 

buccuni 192 

bucellula 57 

budicu 168 

Buglossidium luteum 160 

bukva 83 

bunyol 216 

burez 192 

burqash 73 

butterfish 133 

caballa 121 

cabassoun 139 

cabeçuda 139 

cabete 152 

cabra 186 

cabracho 147 

cabrilla 73 

çaça 44 

cachcouch 139 

cachuco 79 

caguama 219 

cailón 27 

calamar 211 

calamaretti 211 

calamaro 211 

Calamus 74 

calcan 157; c. mic 156 

çalı karides 172 

Callinectes sapidus 183 

Callista chione 206 

calmar 211, 212 

çalpara 185 

camard 150 

camarón 173; c. soldado 174 

Campogramma glaycos 104 

çamuka 139 

cañadilla 192 

canana 212 

Cancer pagurus 183 

Cancridae 183 

canesca 26 

canestrello 200; c. liscio 201 

cangrejo de mar 184; c. moruno 185 

cannocchia 187 

cannolicchio 207, c. curvo 207 


index 407 

cannuchiale 141 

càntera 89 

canthare 89 

canthère 89 

caouanne 219 

cap roig 147 

capa liscia 206 

capa longa 207 

caparon 203 

caparozzolo 203 

capelan 60 

capellán 60 

capet 152 

capillari 53 

capitán 141 

capitone 53 

capocchio 141 

capone coccio 152; c. gallinella 150; 

c. gurno 151; c. lineato 150; c. lira 149; 

c. ubriaco 150 

capóni 149–52; c. keratás 153 

capoun 147 

cappa santa 200 

cappelà 158 

capuni 107 

carabinero 175 

caracol gris 191 

caragolo 191; c. longo 194 

caramel 91 

caramote 176 

caramujo 191 

carangid fish 96 

Carangidae 96, 101 ff. 

carcharías 27 

Carcharodon carcharias 26 

Carcinus aestuarii 184; C. maenas 184; 

C. mediterraneus 184 

cardaire 36 

Cardiidae 202 

cardine 158 

Caretta caretta 219 

çarpan 115 

carpan balı©ı 118 

carpet-shell 204; golden c.-shell 205 

caßa 202 

casarte 124 

cassó 31 

castagnola 106 

castagnole 108; c. petite 106 

castanyola 108 

cata 28, 29 

çatal kuyruk 119 

cavach 36 

cavalla 122 

cavallo 121, 122 

caviar 37 

caviglione 152 

cazón 26 

cedioli 53 

cefalo 141, 144; c. bosega 144; c. botolo 142; 

c. dorato 143; c. verzelata 144 

cega 38 

çekiç, 27 

centolla 186 

Centracanthidae 74, 90, 91 

Centrolabrus exoletus 109 

Cephalacanthidae 152 

Cephalopoda 188 

cephalopods 208 ff. 

cepola 106 

Cepola rubescens 106 

cépole rougeâtre 106 

Cerastoderma edule 202; C. glaucum 202 

Cerithiidae 194 

Cerithium vulgatum 194 

cerna 70 

cernia 70; c. abadeco 72; c. bianca 71; 

c. cirenga 72; c. di fondale 69; c. nera 71 

cernier 69 

cerula 90 

cervia 102 

chabot 135 

Chamelea gallina 203 

chános 73 

chanquete 136 

chaparrudo 135 

chapeau chinois 190 

chapon 147 

charbonnier 89 

charibé oum choké 118 

châtaigne de mer 217 

chávaro 204 

chefal 141 

chéli 53 

chelidonópsaro 58 

Chelon labrosus 144 

Chelonia mydas 219 

chematída 161 

cheppia 45 

cherna 69 

cherna de ley 71 

chernomorska akula 31; c. pusturva 49 

chernomorskaya midiya 198; c. pishka 61 

chernomorski^ kosorot 163; c. losos’ 49 

chernomorskoazovskaya sel’d’ 46 

chernomorskoazovskayi osëtr 39 

chèvre 88 

chicharra 58 

chicharro 101 

chien 101; c. de mer 26; c. espagnol 29 

chiga 38 

chiloú 110, 111 

chiocciola marina 191 

Chios bass 29 

chiroz 121 

Chlamys varia 200, 201 

Chlorophthalmus agassizii 52 

chocó 209, 210 

chopa 89 



chraù 99 

Christópsaro 66 

Chromis chromis 106 

chtapódi 213 

chucla 90 

chucleto 139 

ciarlatan 185 

cicerelle 113 

cicerello 113 

cieche 53 

çiga 38 

cigala 179, 181 

cigale, grande 181; c., petite 181 

cigare 144 

cigarra 181 

çinakop 100 

çingene 184; c. palamudu 123 

cipal 141 

cipo 141 

çipura 75 

cirioli 53 

cirita 142, 144 

çiroz 121 

çitari 88 

Citharidae 154, 155 

Citharus linguatula 155 

civelles 53 

çivisiz kalkan 156 

çizgili mercan 84 

clam 195; bean c. 195; hard-shell c. 195; 

soft-shell c. 195; wedge c. 195; razor c. 207 

claougeou 211 

clavelado 35 

clavell 35; clavellada 35 

clovisse 204-5; c. jaune 205 

Clupeidae 41-7 

clupeoid fish 41 

Clupeonella cultriventris 47 

cocciola 202 

cocciu 116 

cochon de mer 167 

cockle 202; bloody c. 202; dog-c. 196; 

prickly c. 202; spiny c. 202 

cod 59-60; poor c. 60; salt c. 59 

colin 64 

comber 67, 73; brown c. 67 

combula 161 

concha de peregrino 200 

conger (eel) 50, 55 

Conger conger 55 

congre 55 

Congridae 50, 55 

cóngrio 55 

cook, rock 109 

copinya llisa 204 

coque 202; c. rouge 202 

coquille Saint-Jacques 200 

coquina 206 

corb 96, 98 

corba 98 

corball 99 

corbeau 98 

Coris julis 111 

corkwing (wrasse) 109, 112 

cornet 194; c. amb pues 192 

cornuda 27 

corvallo 98 

corvina 97 

corvo 98 

Coryphaena hippurus 107 

Coryphaenidae 106, 107 

coryphène 107 

costardello 56 

cotère 98 

çotra balı©ı 167 

couteau 207; c. arqué 207 

cozza 198; c. pelosa 198 

crab 169, 182; bear c. 182; blue c. 183; edible 

c. 183; hermit c. 188; soft-shell c. 169; 

shore c. 184; spider c. 186 

crabe espagnol 185; c. laineux 185; c. nageur 

185; c. vert 184 

cranc 185; c. pelut 185; c. verd 184 

Crangon crangon 172 

Crangonidae 170, 172 

Crassostrea gigas 197 

crawfish 177, 180 

Crenilabrus tinca 112 

creveta 172 

crevette 175; c. aux œufs bleus 174; 

c. d’Edwards 174; c. grise 172; c. grosse 176; 

c. rose 173; c. rose du large 176; c. rouge 

175; c. royale 176 

crnorep 85 

croaker 96, 224 

crocetta 194 

crustaceans 169ff. 

Ctenolabrus rupestris 109 

cuckoo wrasse 109, 111 

cudaspru 101 

cuerno 194 

çuka 38 

cuoccio 145 

cuore edule 202; c. rosso 202 

cuttlefish 208, 209; little c. 208, 210 

dab 160 

Dactylopterus volitans 58 

dagnja 198 

dainé 99 

damselfish 109 

‘Danube mackerel’ 46 

date-shell 199 

datil de mar 199 

datte de mer 199 

dattero di mare 199 

dauphine 220 

daurade 75; d. de 1’ocean 87; fausse d. 87 

Decapoda natantia 169; D. reptantia 169 

defne yaprak 100 


index 409 

degirmenci 98 

delfin, delfín 220 

Delphinus delphis 220 

demoiselle 111 

denci 78 

dendiq 78, 79 

deniz kestanesi 217; d. kula©ı 189, 190; 

d. lalesi 218; d. orumcegi 186; d. yumurtası 

216 

denizala 49 

dental 78 

dentale della corona 79 

denté 78; d. aux gros yeux 79; d. bossu 79; 

d. couronné 79 

dentex 74, 78 

Dentex dentex 78; D. gibbosus 79; 

D. macrophthalmus 79; D. maroccanus 78 

dentice 78; d. Atlantico 76; d. corassiere 79; 

d. occhione 79 

déntol 78 

dentón 78 

derbio 105 

dere pisisi 161 

Dermochelys coriacea 219 

Dicentrarchus labrax 68; D. punctatus 69 

dikburun karkarias 27 

dikenli öksüz 153; d. salyangoz 192 

dil 160ff. 

dil balı©ı 162–4 

Diplodus annularis 82; D. cervinus cervinus 81; 

D. puntazzo 84; D. sargus 81; D. vulgaris 80 

disli tirsi 45 

djaje 149–53 

dog-cockle 196 

dogfish 26, 28, 29; large-spotted d. 28; 

lesser-spotted d. 29 

dogtooth grouper 71 

dolfin 220 

dolphin 220; d. fish 106, 107 

Donacidae 206 

Donax trunculus 206 

doncella 111 

donzela 109 

donzella 111 

dorada 75 

dorade 75, 107; d. commune 87; d. rose 65; 

d. royale 75 

dorado 107 

dorée 66 

dory 66 

Dosinia oxoleta 203 

dott 69 

‘Dover sole’ 160, 162 

drac-de-mar 114 

dragena 115 

dragó 52 

dragon 114 

drákena 114, 115 

Dromia personata 182 

drum 96 

drumfish 96 

Dublin Bay prawn 179 

dülger 66 

Dunaiski^ puzanok 46 

Dunavska skoumriya 46 

dusky grouper 70 

Echeneidae 166, 217 

Echeneis naucrates 166 

Echinodermata 217 

Echinoidea 217 

eel 50 ff.; American e. 50; common e. 50, 53; 

conger e. 55; moray e. 54; sand e. 113; 

silver e. 50 

e’houdiya 89 

electric ray 33 

eledone 215 

Eledone cirrosa 215; E. moschata 215 

elefante di mare 178 

eliá 216 

elmiss 134 

émissole 30 

Emmelichthyidae 74 

emperador 132 

empereur 132 

encornet 211 

enfú 113 

Engraulidae 41, 48 

Engraulis encrasicolus 48 

Ensis ensis 207 

Epinephelus aeneus 71; E. alexandrinus 72; 

E. caninus 71; E. guaza 70, 71 

équille 113 

Eriphia verrucosa 185 

ériphie 185 

erizo de mar 217 

escamarlá 179 

escargot de mer 188, 190, 192, 194 

escat 32 

esek balı©ı 62 

escolá 63 

escopinya de gallet 202; e. gravada 203 

escorball 98 

escorpión 114 

eskina 98 

espadin 44 

espadon 132 

esparall 82 

espardeña 220 

espetón 138 

esquinadoun 186 

estornino 122 

estrangle belle-mère 101 

esturgeon, esturión 38 

étrille de sable 185 

Euthynnus alletteratus 129 

Eutrigla gurnardus 151 

exocet 58 

Exocoetidae 56, 58 

ezerna tritsona 47 



fagrí 76, 77 

falso abadejo 72 

fan fru 103 

fan mussel 199 

fanfano 103 

fanfaru 103 

fanfre 103 

farrafir 77 

farrideh 77 

fasolare 202 

fausse daurade 87; f. limande 154–5, 158–9 

favollo 185 

favou 184 

favouille 182, 184 

fener balı©ı 168 

feuille 155 

fiatole 134 

fica 134 

fico 60 

fiéla 55 

fieto 134 

figa 134 

figoun 97 

figue 134; f. de mer 216 

fiou pelan 185 

flake 28, 29 

flat lobster 181 

flatfish, dextral 160 ff.; f., sinistral 154 ff. 

flet 161 

Flexopecten glaber 201 

flounder 160, 161, 223 

fluke 161 

flying fish 56, 58; f gurnard 58 

flying squid 212 

forkbeards 62 

fouliya 81 

fragolino 86 

fratar 80 

fríssa 45; f. trichios 43 

fura 63 

Gadidae 59–63 

gádos 61 

gaidourópsaro 63 

Gaidropsarus mediterraneus 63; G. vulgaris 63 

gal 66 

Galeorhinus galeus 26 

galéos 30 

galera 187 

Galeus melastomus 29 

galinette 150 

gall 66 

gallano 111 

gallineta 152 

gallo 158 

galta-roig 143 

galúa 144 

galupe 143 

galya 63 

gamba 176; g. d’esquer 172; g. rosada 175 

gamberello 173 

gamberetto grigio 172 

gambero della sabia 172; g. imperiale 176; 

g. rosa 176; g. rosso 175; g. rosso chiaro 175 

gambeta 173 

ganivet 207 

gaouto-rousso 143 

garan 144 

gardesh 35 

garfish 56, 57 

garída 175, 176 

garidáki 173, 176 

garizzo 90 

garneo 149 

garneu 149 

garuzolo 192 

gastadélo 56 

gastaurello 56 

Gastropoda 188 

gástros 144 

gat 28, 29 

gató 28 

gátos 28 

gatoulin 29 

gattopardo 28 

gattuccio 29 

gatvaire 28 

gávros 48 

gelincik 63 

gembri 173, 175; g. kbir 176; g. sghir 174, 176 

gemt 91 

germon 128 

ghialisteri achiváda 206 

ghiozzo 135 

ghrab 98 

gh¥los 111 

ghzel 128 

ghzerma 138 

gianchetti 42 

gilt-head sea bream 75 

gingirica 47 

ginocchiello 192 

gira 90; g. oßtrulja 90; g. oblica 91 

girelle 111 

gitano 72 

glavoc 135 

globito 210 

glóssa 161 

glossa 160, 162, 164 

glossáki 155 

Glycymeridae 196 

Glycymeris glycymeris 196 

goatfish 92, 224; golden-banded g. 92; 

golden-striped g. 92 

gobene 130 

gobie 135 

Gobiidae 133, 135, 136 

gobio 135 

gòbit 135 

Gobius cobitis 135; G. niger 135 


index 411 

goby 133, 135; transparent g. 136 

gofári 100 

gokak 61 

golden grouper 72 

goldsinny 109 

golleta 160 

golondrina de mar 58 

goujon 135 

goosefish 165 

gopa, gópa 83 

goraz 87 

gourlomátis 49, 52 

gourounópsaro 167 

goviodáki 136 

goviós 135 

grancevola 186 

granchio commune 184 

grancia d’arena 185 

granzeola 186 

granzi boni 184; g. falsi 184; g. matti 184 

granzoporo 185 

grdobina 168 

grebeshok 201 

green wrasse 110 

grey mullet 140, 141; gold g. m. 143; thicklipped 

g. m. 144; thin-lipped g. m. 142 

grimalt 178 

gringou 55 

griset 89 

grivia 110 

grognant 145 

grondin 152; g. galinette 150; g. gris 151; 

g. imbriago 150; g. lyre 149; g. rouge 152 

grongo 55 

gros denté rose 79 

gros yeux 87 

grouper 67, 70, 71, 72 

grunt 224 

guaguanche 137 

guardia civil 27 

guerfal 79 

guitar fish 33, 34 

guitarra 34 

gümüs 139 

gun balı©ı 111 

gupa 83 

gurbell 99 

gurnard 145ff.; armed g. 145, 152, 153; 

flying g. 58, 152; grey g. 151; long-finned 

g. 152; red g. 152; streaked g. 150; 

tub g. 150 

guvid 135 

Gymnammodytes cicerellus 113 

ha 26 

haddock 59; Norway h. 148 

hajla 112 

hake 59, 64; Gulf h. 224; Pacific h. 224; 

silver h. 224 

half-beaks 56 

halibut 154 

halili 98 

halily 143 

Haliotidae 189 

Haliotis tuberculata 189 

hallouf bahr 167 

hamiema 36 

hammema 36 

hammerhead 27; h. shark 26 

hamraia 77 

hamsi 41, 48 

hamsie 48 

hamsiya 48 

hansha 53 

hard-shell clam 195 

haricot de mer 206 

harip 46 

harous 76 

has kefal 141 

hassira 36 

Helicolenus dactylopterus 148 

herba 107 

hermit crab 188 

herrera 84 

herring 41; Kerch h. 46 

hirondelle 58; h. de mer 58 

Hirundichthys rondeletii 58 

hlap 178 

hmar 167 

hobotnica 213–14 

homard 178 

Homarus gammarus 178 

Hoplostethus mediterraneus 65 

horn-shell 194 

horozbina 134 

horse mackerel 96, 101 

hound, rough 29; smooth h. 26, 30; 

unprickly h. 30 

hout sidi sliman 66 

huître 197; h. fine 197; h. plate 197 

hurta 76 

Huso huso 40 

huss 28, 29 

iglan 131 

iglica 57 

iliara 144 

imsell 57 

inkfish 209 

iragno 115 

irigöz sinagrit 79; i. sinarit 79 

iskarmoz 138 

iskorpit 146; i. hanisi 69 

ispari 82 

ispendik 68, 69 

istakoz 178 

istavrit 101 

Istiophoridae 131 

istiridye 197 

istridia 197 



izmarit 90 

izmirna 54 

jack 96 

jack mackerel 101 

jambonneau 199 

japuta 108 

jarradh el bahr 179 

jarret 91 

jastog 180 

jeghali 76 

jegulja 53 

jerraf 75 

jerriwa 102 

jesetra tuponoska 38 

jibia 209 

joël 139 

John Dory 65, 66 

jolthead porgy 74 

julia 111 

julienne 63 

jumbo shrimp 170 

jurel 101 

kahlaia 85 

kahlayoun 144 

kahlija 85 

kalamar 211 

kalamári 211 

kalb bahr 26, 29 

kaljmar 211, 212 

kalkan 156,157 

kalkáni 157 

kallach 124 

kalmar 211 

kalógnomi 196 

kamenica 197 

kanjac 73 

kannouta 89 

kantar 89 

karagiöz 46 

karagöz 80 81; k. tirsi 45 

karavida 179; k. megáli 178 

karides 176 

karradh 100 

karshou 144 

karvoúni 129 

katırca 134 

Katsuwonus pelamis 130 

kavall 122 

kavouráki 185 

kávouras 184 

kavouromána 186 

kaya 135 

kedi balı©ı 28, 29 

kefal 141 

keler 32 

kemane 34 

képhalos 141 

kerátios 194 

Kerch herring 46 

khamsa 48 

kharbo 99 

kheddir 110–12 

khenena 98 

khirm 57 

khoutiffa 58 

khoutiffet el bahr 58 

kılıç balı©ı 132 

kingfish 224 

kırlangıç balı©ı 150, 152 

kırma mercan 86 

kırmızı iskorpit 147 

kirnja 70 

kmiri 144 

knobbed porgy 74 

kobar 144 

kocálas 31 

kochili 206 

kofana 100 

kokot 150 

kolaoúzos 103 

koliós 122 

kolyoz 122 

komarca 75 

konj 98 

kopáni 130 

köpek balı©ı 30 

kopurka 44 

koraca 39 

kordélla 106 

koronáti tsaoússis 79 

kötek 99 

koutsomoúra 94 

kovac 66 

kozica 176 

krevetka 172 

kriv rak 184 

ksampu 179 

ktat 30 

ktef 80 

kténi 200 

kubrita 129 

kuka 181 

kum balı©ı 113; k. sokanı 114 

kumurcun kayası 135 

kupes 83 

kurba© balı©ı 116 

kurjal 99 

kydóni 202, 203 

kynigós 107 

laban 141 

labre vert 110 

Labridae 110, 111, 112 

Labrus bergylta 109; L. bimaculatus 111; 

L. merula 110; L. viridis 110 

lacerto 121 

lacha 43 

lahoz 71 


index 413 

lakerda 123 

lámbrena 25 

Lamellibranchiata 188 

Lamna nasus 27 

Lamnidae 27 

lampouga 107 

lampougue 107 

lamprea de mar 25 

lampreda marina 25 

lamprey, sea 24–5 

lamproie marine 25 

lampuga 107 

lampuka 107 

lamrini 54 

lançon 113 

langosta 180; l. mora 180 

langostina 176 

langostina moruno 175 

langouste 177, 180 

langoustine 177, 179 

lanzado 122 

lapa 190 

lapina 110 

lascar 163 

latterino 139; l. capoccione 139; l. sardaro 139 

lavráki 68, 69 

leccia 102, 104; l. fasciata 104; l. stella 105 

lefâa 54, 114 

lefer 100 

lej 97 

lemon sole 160 

lengua 162 

lenguado 160, 162, 163, 164 

Lepidopus caudatus 119 

Lepidorhombus boscii 158; L. whiffiagonis 158 

Lepidotrigla cavillone 152 

letterato 129 

levrek 68 

lézard 52 

lica 104 

liche 104; l. glauque 105 

Lichia amia 104 

lignja 211 

limba de mare 163 

limbert 110 

limone di mare 216 

limpet 190 

ling 59, 63; blue 63; Mediterranean 63 

linguata 162 

linguattola 155 

lingue 63; petite l. 62 

Liocarcinus corrugatus 185 

lipsos 147 

lirio 104 

lisa 144 

lissa 104, 144 

list 162 

listado 130 

Lithognathus mormyrus 84 

Lithophaga lithophaga 199 

lithríni 86, 87 

lítsa 104,105 

Liza aurata 143; L. ramada 142; L. saliens 144 

lizard fish 50, 52 

lizz 138 

llagosta 180 

llagostí 176 

llamantol 178 

llampresa de mar 25 

llampuga 107 

lliseria 158 

llissa 141 

llobarro 68 

llop 68 

lloro 111 

lluç 64 

llúcera 60 

lluerna 150 

llunada 27 

loban 141 

lobster 169, 177, 178; blue-black 1. 169; flat l. 

181; Norway l. 179; rock l. 180; slipper l. 

181; spiny l. 180 

loche (de mer) 63 

loggerhead 219 

Loliginidae 211 

Loligo vulgaris 211 

longueiron 207 

Lophiidae 165, 168 

Lophius americanus 165; L. budegassa 168; 

L. piscatorius 168 

lota 63 

lotregan 143 

lotte 168 

loubya 206 

loukos 72 

loup (de mer) 67-8; l. tigré 69 

loupassou 68 

loutsáki 113 

loútsos 138 

lubin 68 

lubina 68 

luccio marino 138 

lufar 100 

lüfer 100 

lumbrina 99 

lustro 143 

luvar 131 

Luvaridae 131 

luxerna 70 

l¥chnos 116 

l¥ra 181 

mabre 84 

maccarello 121 

macieta 181 

macka 28, 29 

mackerel 120 ff.; Atlantic m. 121; chub m. 

121–2; ‘Danube m.’ 46; frigate m. 125, 130; 

horse m. 96, 101; jack m. 101 



magnosa 181 

mahar 196 

mahmuzlu camgöz 31 

maigre 97 

Maiidae 186 

maire 60 

maïza 84 

Maja squinado 186 

malarmat 153 

malta palamudu 103 

maluk tounets 129 

mamello di vaca 216 

mandagöz 87 

mantis shrimp 169, 182, 187 

maquereau 121; m. espagnol 122 

marbré 84 

margarita 205 

marída 91 

marina 54 

marlin 131; m. azul 131; m. bianco 131; 

white m. 131 

marmora 84 

marraix 27 

Marsipobranchii 24 

maruca 63 

marzpan 109 

masanette 184 

massot 110 

mata-soldat 90 

mavraki 142 

mayático 102; m. aetós 97 

mazak 150 

mazoul 143 

mazzancolla 176 

m’dess 160, 162–4; m. moussa 156–7 

meagre 96, 97 

mechenosets 132 

mech-ryba 132 

medjid 61 

megrim 154, 158 

mejil 143 

mejillón 198; m. barbada 198 

melanoúri 85 

melanurya 85 

melet 139 

mellou 94, 95 

melokidono 196 

melú 60 

melva 130 

mèlvera 130 

mendole commune 90 

menkous 84 

mennani 71, 72; m. adiad 71; m. ahmar 70 

mennola 90 

ménoula 90 

mercan 86, 87 

merillo 67 

merlan 61; gros m. 64 

merlanca 61 

Merlangius merlangus 61; M. merlangus 

euxinus 61 

merlano 61 

merle 110 

merlo 110; m. marino 110 

merlu 64 

Merlucciidae 59, 64 

Merluccius merluccius 64 

merluza 64 

merluzzo 64; m. cappellano 60 

mero 70 

mérou 67, 70; m. blanc 70–71; m. noir 71; 

m. rouge 70; m. serranier 70 

mersin balı©ı 38, 40; m. morinası 40 

meth¥stra 202 

mettig 211 

mezgit balı©ı 61 

mezit balı©ı 59, 60 

Michrochirus ocellatus 164; M. variegatus 160 

Microcosmus sulcatus 216 

Micromesistius poutassou 60 

mida 198 

midi 198 

midye 198 

mielga 31 

mıgrı 55 

mihaca 167 

milandre 26 

minakop 99 

minare 191 

miou 116 

miracielo 116 

mitilo 198 

mixinári 143 

Modiolus barbatus 198 

modrak 90 

moghzel 138 

mohrat 34 

moiella 29 

moixo 139 

mojarra 80 

moleche 184 

moll de fang 94; m. roquer 95 

mòllera 62 

molluscs 188ff. 

Molva dipterygia 63; M. molva 63 

molva occhiona 63 

monk 168 

monkfish 32,168 

Monochirus hispidus 160 

Monodonta turbinata 191 

moray (eel) 50, 54 

morena 54 

morina 54 

morme 84 

Moronidae 68, 69 

morragute 142 

morruda 84 

morska bekasa 57; m. hiena 84; m. lisitsa 35; 

m. lyastovitsa 150 


index 415 

morski drakon 114; m. ezik 163 

morsko^ yazyk 163 

morue 59 

morun 40 

moruna 40 

moscardino bianco 215 

moschoctápodo 215 

mostelle 62; m. de fond 62 

motella 63 

motelle 63 

mougrí 55 

mouhar 205 

moule 198; m. barbue 198; m. de Toulon 198; 

m. rouge 198 

mouré pountchou 84 

mourmoúra 84 

mourre agut 84 

moúsmouli 86 

moustelle 62 

mrel 134 

mrina 54 

m’sella 56, 57 

muccu 139 

muge 141 

Mugil cephalus 141 

Mugilidae 140–44 

mujol 141 

mujou de roco 143; m. labru 144 

mulet 140, 141; m. cabot 141; m. doré 143; m. 

lippu 144; m. porc 142; m. sauteur 144 

mulett 141 

mulettu 141 

mullet, grey 140, 141; gold grey m. 143; 

thick-lipped grey m. 144; thin-lipped grey 

m. 142 

mullet, red 92, 94, 95 

mullet, striped 140 

Mullidae 92, 94, 95 

Mullus barbatus 92, 94; M. barbatus ponticus 

94; M. surmuletus 92, 94, 95 

mungara 91 

muou 116 

Muraena helena 54 

Muraenidae 50, 54 

mürekkep balı©ı 209 

murena 54 

murène 54 

murex 188 

Murex 192 

murice 192; m. riccio 192 

Muricidae 192 

murjane 86, 87 

muscle 198 

muscolo 198 

musola 30 

mussel 195, 198 

mustella 62 

Mustelus 30; M. asteria 30; M. mustelus 30 

muzao 141 

Mycteroperca rubra 72 

m¥di 198 

mylokópi 99 

mytáki 84 

Mytilidae 198,199 

Mytilus edulis 198; M. galloprovincialis 198 

nácar 199 

nacre 199 

najava 207 

nasello 64 

Naucrates 96; N. ductor 103 

nazalli 60, 61, 64 

nécora 185 

Necora puber 185 

needlefish 56 

nemska esetra 38 

Nephropidae 178, 179 

Nephrops norvegicus 179 

nisetru 39 

n’lat 190 

Noah’s Ark 196 

nobar 144 

nonnat 136 

nonnati 136 

Norway haddock 148; N. lobster 179 

nounat 136 

nurse hound 28 

oblada 85 

Oblada melanura 85 

oblade 85 

obljak 91 

occhi verdi 52 

occhialone 87 

occhiata 85 

occhi-grossi 122 

occhione 52 

Ocenebra erinacea 192 

octápous 213 

Octopodidae 213 ff. 

octopus 208, 213 ff.; curled o. 208, 215 

Octopus macropus 214; O. vulgaris 213 

ojiverde 52 

öksüz 149 

oktopod 213 

old wife 89 

olić 64 

olive 206 

ombrina 99 

ombrine 96, 99 

Ommastrephidae 212 

orada 75 

orata 75 

Orcynopsis unicolor 124 

ördek balı©ı 111 

oreille de mer 189; o. de Saint-Pierre 189 

oreja de mar 189 

orella de mar 189 

orenyola 58 

orfoz 70 



oriola vera 151 

orkinos 127 

ormeau 189 

ormer 189 

orphie 57 

orrechia manna 189 

ortie de mer 218 

osëtr 38 

ostión 197 

ostra 197 

Ostrea edulis 197 

Ostreidae 197 

ostrica 197 

ostrichella 197 

ot balıkarı 109 

ou de mar 216 

ourata 75 

ourhaghis 144 

oursin 217 

ouzef 43 

ovcica 84 

ox¥rhynchos 38 

oyster 195, 197; Portuguese o. 197 

pada 194 

pageau 86 

pagel 86 

pagell 86 

pagello bastardo 86 

Pagellus acarne 86; P. bogaraveo 

87; P. erythrinus 86 

pageot blanc 86; p. rouge 86 

pagour 185 

pagre 74, 77; p. à points bleus 76; p. bossu 76; 

p. commun 77; p. royal 76, 79 

pagro 76, 77; p. reale 76 

Pagrus auriga 76; P. caeruleosticus 76; P. pagrus 

pagrus 77, 79 

pàguera 77 

Palaemon serratus 173 

Palaemonidae 170, 173 

palaia 162, 163; p. bruixa 158; p. misèries 159; 

p. petit 164; p. cossa 155, 159 

palamida, palamida 123 

palamita 123; p. bianca 124 

palamud 123 

palamut 123, 130 

Palinuridae 180 

Palinurus elephas 180; P. mauritanicus 180 

palmata 75 

palombo 30 

palometa blanca 105; p. negra 108; p. roja 65 

palomète 105, 124 

palometón 104 

palomida 104, 130 

palomine 105 

palourde 204 

pámpano 134 

pàmpol 103; p. rascàs 69 

Pandalidae 174 

pandora 86 

papalina, papalína 44 

paparda 56 

Parablennius gattorugine 134 

Paracentrotus lividus 217 

paragho 80 

Parapandalus narval 174 

Parapenaeus longirostris 176 

pardete 141 

pargo 77 

parme 102 

parrocha 42 

parrotfish 109 

pas 31; p. kostelj 31 

passera 160; p. pianuzza 161 

pastardella 131 

pastenaga 111 

pastrav de mare 49 

pastruga, pastrŭgă 40 

pataclé 74, 82 

patella 190 

Patella caerulea 190 

patelle 190 

Patellidae 190 

paterítsa 27 

pauk 114 

peau bleue 26 

Pecten jacobaeus 200 

Pectinidae 200 

pedaç 159 

pégouse 164 

peï coua 98; p. furco 153 

peigne 200; p. glabre 201 

peix de San Rafel 152; p. espada 132; p. rei 60, 

61, 97 

pejerrey 139 

pelamida 123 

pelamide 123 

pèlerine 200 

pélou 185 

peluda 159 

Penaeidae 170, 175, 176 

Penaeus kerathurus 176 

pentíki 63 

peocio 198 

pérca 73 

perccur 192 

perch, lettered 73 

perche 73; perchia 73 

Perciformes 67, 96 

periska 199 

Peristediidae 145, 152, 153 

Peristedion cataphractum 153 

perlon 150 

pescadillas 64 


index 417 

pesce argentin 119; p. balestra 167; p. cane 26; 

p. castagna 108; p. civetta 58; p. forca 153; 

p. lucertola 52; p. martello 27; p. ’mpiso 29; 

p. pilota 103; p. prete 116; p. San Pietro 66; 

p. sciabola 119; p. serra 100; p. spada 132; 

p. specchie 65; p. violino 34; p. volante 58 

pesciu gattu 28 

peste spada 132 

petalída 190 

pétoncle 200 

petrale 158 

petro 158 

Petromyzon marinus 25 

Petromyzonidae 24, 25 

pettine 200 

petxina de pelegrí 200 

petxinot 196; p. de sang 206 

peu de cabrit 196 

pez aguda 131; p. ballesta 167; p. cinto 119; 

p. de limón 102; p. de San Fransisco 52; 

p. de San Pedro 66; p. espada 132; 

p. martillo 27; p. piloto 103; p. plata 49; 

p. volador, 58 

Phycis blennioides 62; P. phycis 62 

Phyllonotus trunculus 192 

piballes 53 

pic 84 

picarel 74, 90, 91 

pie d’asino 196; p. di pelicano 194 

pieuvre 213 

piga 72 

pilchard 41, 42 

pilgrim scallop 195, 200, 201 

pilot fish 96, 103 

pines 199 

pinna 199 

Pinna nobilis 199 

Pinnidae 199 

pintarroja 29 

piper 145, 149 

pirka 73 

pisci chitarra 34; p. d’infernu 29; p. luna 108; 

p. porcu 167 

pisi 155, 156, 158; p. balı©ı 156 

pisiya 161 

pissi, píssi 159 

pixxi plamtu 27 

pixxi San Pietru 66 

pixxispad 132 

plaice 160 

platerina 143 

Platichthys flesus 161; P. flesus flesus 161; P. 

flesus luscus 161 

platija 161 

plavica 122 

plegonero 61 

Plesionika edwardsi 174 

Pleuronectes platessa 160 

Pleuronectidae 160, 161 

plie 160 

podás 159 

poisson-guitare 34; p. juif 98; p. limon 102; 

p. montre 65; p. pilote 103; p. volant 58 

polanda 123 

pôle 163 

polido 49 

pollack 59 

polpessa 214 

polpo 213 

Polyprion americanus 69 

Pomatomidae 96, 100 

Pomatomus saltatrix 100 

pomfret 106, 133, 134 

pompano 96, 105; Florida p. 105 

pontikós 62 

poor cod 60 

pop 213; p. blanc 215 

popche 135 

porbeagle shark 26, 27 

porgy 74, 224; jolthead p. 74; knobbed p. 74; 

red p. 77; whitebone p. 74 

porph¥ra 192 

porpora 192 

porqua 142 

portuguaise 197 

Portuguese oyster 197 

Portunidae 184,185 

Portunus pelagicus 183 

pota 212 

poule de mer 66 

poulpe 213, 214; p. rouge 214; p. tacheté 214 

poupresse 214 

pourpre 213 

poutassou 60 

poutina 42 

poutine 42 

praio 77 

praire 203 

praïro 203 

prawn 169, 170; common p. 173; Dublin Bay 

p. 179 

prega-diou 187 

prêtre 139 

prickly cockle 202 

Prionace glauca 26 

probecho 216 

prosphycoulla aspri 118 

prosphygáki 60 

prstac 199 

Psetta maxima maeotica 18, 157; 

P. maxima 157 

psilí garída 172 

pudenta 134 

pulatarina 142 

pulpo 213; p. blanco 215; p. patudo 214 

puput 159 

pustruga 40 

Pyuridae 216 



qalaqt 124 

qanfoud bahr 217 

qarnit kbir 213; q. sghir 214–15 

qarous 68; q. bou nokta 69 

qattous 28 

qawsalla 118 

quattous 78 

queen scallop 200 

quelet 87 

quisquilla 173; q. gris 172 

quissona 31 

rabbit fish 15, 117, 118 

raboa 134 

raie blanche 36; r. bouclée 35; r. miroir 36 

rainbow wrasse 111 

Raja alba 36; R. batis 36; R. clavata 35; 

R. miraletus 36 

rajada de taques 36 

Rajidae 33, 35, 36 

rajja 36 

rakovica 186 

rana pescatrice 168 

raon 112 

rap, rape 168 

rascacio 146 

rascàs 69 

rascasse 145 ff.; r. brune 146; r. de fond du 

nord 148; r. noire 146; petite r. 146; 

r. rouge 147 

rasoir 207 

raspallón 82 

rat 116 

rata 116 

ray 33 ff.; electric r. 33; sting r. 33; thornback 

r. 33, 35 

raya 36; r. blanca 36; r. bramante 36; r. de 

clavos 35; r. de espejos 36 

Ray’s bream 106, 108 

raΩa 35 

razor clam 207; r.-shell 207 

razza bianca 36; r. chiodata 35; 

r. quattrocchi 36 

red-fish 148 

red mullet 92, 94, 95 

red porgy 77 

red scorpion fish 147 

red sea bream 87 

reig 97 

rémol 156; r. de riu 161 

Remora remora 166 

requin marteau 27 

Rhinobatidae 33, 34 

Rhinobatos rhinobatos 34 

rhum 156 

riccio de mare 217 

ricciola 102 

rigadelle 203 

rina 36 

rîndunica-de-mare 150 

rizeafca 46 

rocher à pourpre 192; r. epineux 192 

rock cook 109 

rock lobster 180 

‘rock salmon’ 26 

rockling, three-bearded 63 

rodaballo 157 

roker35 

romb 156 

rombo 157; r. chiodato 157; r. di rena 159; 

r. giallo 158; r. liscio 156; r. quattrocchi 158 

rómbos-pissí 156 

rondinella 58 

rophós 70, 71 

‘rosada’ 26 

rospo 168 

rossetto 136 

Rossia macrosoma 210 

roucaou 109 

rouget 92, r. barbet 94, r. blanc 94, 

r. de roche 95, r. de vase 94 

‘rouget’, ‘r.-grondin’ 145 

rough hound 29 

roumbou 156 

roun 156 

rouquas 109 

rouquier 109 

rousseau 87 

roussette, grande 28; r., petite 29 

roussillon 144 

rovello 87 

r’tila bahr 186 

rubio 150 

Ruditapes decussatus 204 

rumenac 86 

runner 96 

rusak 46 

ruska esetra 39 

sábalo 45 

saboga 45 

sabonero 109 

sabre argenté 119 

sacchetto 67 

saddled sea bream 85 

saffraya 102, 143 

safratouzen 143 

safrid 101 

sailfish 131 

sail-fluke 154, 155, 158 

Saint-Pierre 66 

saithe 59 

sajedda 36 

salema 88 

saliára 134 

Salmo trutta labrax 49 

salmon 41 

salmon trout 41; Black Sea s. trout 49 

salmonete de fango 94; s. de roca 95 

Salmonidae 49 


index 419 

Salmonoidei 41 

salpa, sálpa 88 

saltabardissa 116 

salvariego 114 

sama de pluma 79 

sand-eel 113 

sand-lance 113 

sandouq 207 

sand-smelt 137, 139 

saoupo 88 

saouqueno 75 

sar 81; s. à grosses lèvres 81; s. commun 81; 

s. doré 80; s. rayé 81; s. royal 76; 

s. tambour 84 

saragho 80 

sarago fasciato 80; s. maggiore 81; 

s. pizzuto 84 

saragoz 89 

saratan el bahr 178 

sard 81 

sarda 42 

Sarda sarda 123 

sardalya 42, 43 

sardélla 42 

sardina 42; s. mabrouma 43; s. mifattara 43 

Sardina pilchardus 42 

sardine 41, 42 

Sardinella aurita 43; S. maderensis 43 

sargan 57 

sargí 81 

sargo 81; s. breado 81; s. picudo 84; 

s. soldado 81 

Sargocentron rubrum 65 

sargós 81 

sargu 81; sargue 81 

sarı hani 70 

sarı kanat 100 

sarıa©ız 97 

sarıgöz 80, 89 

sarıkuyruk 102 

sarpa 88 

Sarpa salpa 88 

sauclet 139 

saupa 88 

saupe 88 

saurel 101 

saury 56 

sauteur 57 

savrídi 101 

sawrella 101 

saz kayası 135 

sbares 82 

sbars 82 

sbata 119 

sbouga 83 

scabbard fish 117; black s. f. 117, 119; 

silver s. f. 119 

scad 96, 101 

scaldfish 154, 155, 159 

scallop, pilgrim 195, 200, 201; smooth s. 201; 

queen s. 200; variegated s. 200 

scampi 170, 179 

scampo 179 

scarmós 52 

scathári 89 

Sciaena umbra 98 

sciaenid fish 96 

Sciaenidae 96–9 

sciarrano (scrittura) 73 

sciène 97 

Scomber japonicus 122; S. scombrus 121 

Scomberesocidae 56 

Scomberesox saurus 56 

Scombridae 120–4 

sconciglio 192 

Scopeliformes 50 

Scophthalmidae 154, 156–8 

Scophthalmus rhombus 156 

scorfano nero 146; s. rosso 147 

scorfanotto 146 

Scorpaena notata 146; S. porcus 146; 

S. scrofa 147 

Scorpaenidae 145–8 

Scorpaeniformes 145 

scórpena 146, 147 

scorpie-de-mare 146 

scorpion fish 147, 223 

scoumbrí 121 

scrumbie alabastra 121; s. de Dunare 46 

scumbriya 121 

Scyliorhinidae 28, 29 

Scyliorhinus canicula 29; S. stellaris 28 

Scyllaridae 181 

Scyllarides latus 181 

Scyllarus arctus 181 

sea anemone 188; edible s. a. 218 

sea bass 67, 68 

sea bream 74, 77; Couch’s s. b. 77 

sea lamprey 24, 25 

sea-robin 145, 224 

sea turtle 219; common s. t. 219; giant s. t. 219 

sea urchin 217 

Sebastes marinus 148; S. viviparus 148 

sefıf 75 

seiche 209 

seláchi 35, 36; s. rinóvatos 34 

sementare 53 

senegaless 134 

sennet 137 

sepi 209 

sepia, sèpia 209 

Sepia officinalis 209 

Sepiidae 209 

Sepiola rondeleti 210 

Sepiolidae 210 

seppia 209 

seppiola grossa 210 

sept trous 25 

sept yeux 25 



serdouk 149–53 

Seriola 96; S. dumerili 102 

sériole 102 

serrà 73 

serran 73; s. chevrette 73; s. écriture 73 

serrandell 159 

Serranidae 69–73 

serrano 73 

Serranus cabrilla 73; S. hepatus 67; S. scriba 73 

serre 100 

serviola 102 

séveran 101 

sévereau 101 

sevruga sturgeon 40 

sevryuga 40 

seytan minaresi 194 

sfinn 32 

sfogio 162 

sfoglia 162 

sgombro 121 

shabata 104 

shad 41, 45; allis s. 45; twaite s. 45 

shark 26 ff., also 33–4; angel s. 26, 32; blue 

s. 26; hammerhead s. 26; porbeagle s. 26, 

27; s. sucker 166, white s. 26 

shbouka 45 

sh’bour 138 

sheepshead sea bream 84 

shelba 88 

shelbout 105 

shell, razor- 207; wedge s. 206 

shell-fish 169 

shergou 80 

shore crab 184 

shoubia 209 

shourou 101 

shprot 44 

sh’rab 104 

sh’rif 110 

shrimp, 169, 170, 172, 224; brown s. 172; 

jumbo s. 170; mantis s. 169, 182, 187; 

semi-transparent s. 169 

shringi 69 

sibri 82 

sigan-batata 118 

Siganidae 117, 118 

sigano 118 

Siganus luridus 118; S. rivulatus 15, 118 

siljac 84 

siljka oßtrulja 90 

siljka oblica 91 

silver eel 50 

silver scabbard fish 119 

silverside 137, 139 

sinagrit 77, 78 

sinarit 77, 78 

singhil 143 

siouclet 139 

sip 38 

sipa 209 

sípia 209 

sivriburun karagöz 84 

six yeux 189 

skalm 52 

skamp 179 

skarid 172 

skate 33; white s. 36 

skiós 98 

skipper 56,130 

skocac 141; s. balavac 142; s. dugaß 144; 

s. glavaß 141; s. putnik 144; s. vlatac 143 

skorpid 146 

skoulíki 187 

skoumbri 121, 122 

skourariya 121 

ßkrpina 147 

ßkrpun 146 

skußa 121 

skyláki 29 

sk¥los acanthiás 31 

slipper lobster 181 

smarid 91 

smarida 91 

smelt 223 

smeriglio 27 

smérna 54 

smirida 91 

smooth hound 26, 30 

smooth scallop 201 

smudut 68 

ßnjur 101 

soft-shell clam 195 

sogliola 160, 162; s. adriatica 163; s. dal porro 

163; s. fasciata 160; s. occhiuta 164; s. turca 

164 

soldat 164 

sole 154, 162, 224; s. à pectorale ocellée 163; 

s. de Klein 164; Dover s. 160; French s. 163; 

lemon s. 160; s. ocellée 164; s. panachée 

160; petite s. jaune 160; s. tachetée 164; 

thickback s. 160; s. velue 160 

Solea impar 163; S. kleinii 164; S. lascaris 163; 

S. nasuta 163; S. solea 160, 162; S. vulgaris 

162; S. vulgaris aegyptiaca 162; S. vulgaris 

vulgaris 162 

Soleidae 160, 162–4, 224 

Solen marginatus 207 

Solenidae 207 

solína 199, 207 

solinya 207 

solleta 155 

sonso 113 

sorell 101 

sortija 163 

soultan 112 

soupiá 209 

soupítsa 210 

Spanish bream 86 

spanocchio 176 

spar 82 


index 421 

sparaglione 82 

sparaillon 82 

spari 82 

Sparidae 74–89 

Sparisoma cretense 109 

sparlot 82 

spáros 80, 82 

Sparus aurata 75 

spathópsaro 119 

spearfish 131; Mediterranean s. 131 

spet 138 

Sphyraena barracuda 138; S. sphyraena 138 

Sphyraenidae 137, 138 

sphyrída 71 

Sphyrna zygaena 27 

Sphyrnidae 27 

spiantani 184 

Spicara flexuosa 90; S. maena 90; S. smaris 91 

spider crab 186 

spigola 68; s. adantica 69; s. macchiata 69 

spinarolo 31; s. bruno 31 

spinefoot 117, 118 

spinola 68 

spiny cockle 202 

spiny lobster 180 

Spondyliosoma cantharus 89 

sprat 41, 44 

Sprattus sprattus 44; S. s. balticus 44; 

S. s. phalericus 44; S. s. sprattus 44 

spurdog 31 

squadro 32 

Squalidae 31 

Squaliformes 26 

Squalus acanthias 31; S. blainvillei 31 

Squatina squatina 32 

Squatinidae 32 

squeru 32 

squid 208, 209, 211; flying s. 212 

Squilla mantis 187 

squille 187 

Squillidae 187 

squinado 186 

squirlu 82 

srdjela 42 

srebrnica 49 

star-gazer 113, 116 

stavrid 101 

sterlet, sterlyad’ 38 

Stichopus regalis 218 

sting ray 33 

stinkard 30 

stíra 72 

stocc 207 

stockfish 59 

Stolidobranchiata 216 

Stomatopoda 169 

stone bass 67, 69 

stone-sucker 25 

storione 38; s. cobici 38; s. ladato 40; 

s. stellato 40 

strelka 212 

strídi 197 

striped sea bream 84 

striped mullet 140 

stromatée 134 

Stromateidae 133, 134 

Stromateus fiatola 134 

strongiloz 91 

strussi 184 

sturgeon 37-9; beluga s. 40; sevruga s. 40 

suacia 159; s. mora 159 

succagnene 101 

suela 164 

sugarello pittato 101 

Sultan Ibrahim ramleh 94; S. I. sakhri 95 

supi 209 

supya 209 

surer 167 

suro 101 

sweet William 30 

swordfish 131, 132 

Symphodus melops 109; S. tinca 112 

synagrída 78 

Synaptura kleinii 164 

Synodontidae 50, 52 

Synodus saurus 52 

tambor real 164 

tambour 67 

tamr el bahr 198,199 

tanudo 89 

tanuta 89 

taoutenno 211 

taouteno 212 

tarak 200, 201 

tartaruga di mare 219 

tartufo di mare 203 

tartufolo 203 

tas hanisi 72 

tasarte 124 

tassergal 100 

taupe 27 

tautenne 211 

tebrelli 130 

tekir 95 

tekke 172 

tellina 206 

tersi 45 

testuggine marina 219 

Tetrapturus albidus 131; T. belone 131 

thirnab 102 

thon blanc 128; t. rouge 127 

thonine 129 

thornback ray 33, 35 

thrápsalo 212 

three-bearded rockling 63 

Thunnidae 127–30 

Thunnus alalunga 128; T. thynnus 127 

timar 80 

tintorera 26 



tırpana 36 

tirsi 45; t. balı©ı 46 

tiryaki 116 

tjurbo 157 

tobar 142 

Todarodes sagittatus 212 

tomate de mer 218 

tombarello 130 

tompot 134 

ton 127, 130 

tonn 127 

tonnetto 129; t. listato 130 

tonno 127 

tónnos 127; t. macrópteros 128 

tonyina 127, 129 

top bas kefal 144 

tope 26 

top-shell 191 

tordo 110; t. fischietto 111; t. nero 110 

torik 123 

torillo 134 

torricella 194 

tortue de mer verte 219; t. luth 219 

totano 212 

totli 212 

toun 127; t. ahmar 127; t. sghir 129 

tourdre 110 

toutenon commun 212 

Trachinidae 113-15 

Trachinotus 96; T. carolinus 105; T. ovatus 105 

Trachinus araneus 115; T. draco 114, 

T. radiatus 115; T. vipera 114 

Trachurus 96; T. mediterraneus 101; 

T. mediterraneus ponticus 101; T. picturatus 

101; T. trachurus 101 

tracina drago 114; t. raggiata 115; t. ragno 

115; t. vipera 114 

tragalj 90 

trakonya 114, 115 

trança 78 

travjanov krab 184 

treggh 94 

tregghia 94 

Triakidae 30 

Trichiuridae 117,119 

trigger-fish 165, 167; grey t.-f. 165 

trigghia 94 

Trigla lucerna 150; T. lyra 149; T. pini 152 

triglia 92, 94; t. di fango 94; t. di scoglio 95 

Triglidae 145, 149-52 

Trigloporus lastoviza 150 

trilia beidha 94; t. hajar 95; t. hamra 95 

Trisopterus minutus 60 

trlja 94, 95 

trnobok 101 

Trochidae 191 

tróchos 191 

trout, salmon 41 

trumfau 56 

tsatsa 44 

tsipoúra 75 

tsíros 121 

tub gurnard 150 

tub-fish 150 

tuna 120, 125-7; bluefin t. 125–7; 

longfin t. 128; yellow-fin t. 125 

tunets 127 

Tunicata 216 

tunj 127 

tunny 127; little t. 129; (see also tuna) 

turbot 154, 157; Black Sea t. 18, 157 

turtle, giant sea 219; leathery t. 219 

twaite shad 45 

two-banded sea bream 80 

tyul’ka 47 

uçan balık 58 

ugor 55 

ugor’ 53 

Umbrina canariensis 99; U. cirrosa 99 

unprickly hound 30 

uopa 83 

uovo di mare 216 

Upeneus asymmetricus 15, 92; 

U. moluccensis 92; U. tragula 15 

Uranoscopidae 113 

Uranoscopus scaber 116 

ußata 85 

uskamru 121 

ustritsa 197 

vabic 187 

vaca 73 

vairó 103 

vanada 80 

vanneau 200 

vano 200 

variegated scallop 200 

varlet de ville 91 

vatoz 35, 36 

vatrachópsaro 168 

velanítsa 144 

Veneridae 203 ff. 

Venerupis aurea 205 

ventaglio 200 

Venus verrucosa 203 

Venus, smooth 206; warty V. 203 

verat 121 

verderol 102 

verdesca 26 

verigüeto 203 

verni 206 

verrugato 99 

verzelata 144 

vibora 115 

vieille 109, 110; v. coquette 111 

violet 216 

violon 34 

vitello di mare 30 


index 423 

vive 114; v. araignée 115; grande v. 114; 

petite v. 114; v. rayée 115 

vláchos 69 

vokke de ’mfierne 29 

volak 192 

volandeira 200, 201 

vongola 203, 205; v. gialla 205; v. nera 204; 

v. verace 204 

vopa 83 

voppi 83 

vrana 110 

vranac 98 

vuopa 83 

wagess 32 

wakar 72 

wakka 75 

wedge clam 195; w. shell 192, 206 

weever 113–15; greater w. 113–14; lesser 

w. 113–14 

whiff 154, 158 

white grouper 71 

white sea bream 81 

white shark 26; w. skate 36 

whitebait 44 

whitebone porgy 74 

whiting 59–61; blue w. 60; Couch’s w. 60 

wrasse 109 ff.; ballan w. 109; corkwing w. 112; 

cuckoo w. 109, 111; brown w. 110; green w. 

110; peacock w. 112; rainbow w. 111 

wreckfish 67, 69 

xanquet 139 

Xanthidae 185 

xigala 181 

Xiphias gladius 132 

Xiphiidae 131, 132 

xiphiós 132 

xkatlu 32 

xucla 90 

xuclador 25 

Xyrichthys novicula 112 

yaladerma 105 

yazılı hani 73; y. orkinos 129 

yellow tail 102 

yengeç 184 

yılan balı©ı 53 

zamburiña 200 

zankour 135 

zapata 76 

zarbout 194 

zargaïa 89 

zargan 57 

zargána 56, 57 

zargana 57 

zargani 57 

Zeidae 65, 66 

zellek 118 

zerro 91 

zerzoumia 52 

Zeugopterus velivolans 155 

Zeus faber 66 

zilpa 88 

ziz el bahr 181 

zlatopruΩica 88 

zmeimra 90, 91 

zmiorka 53 

zubacić rumeni 79 

zubatac 78; z. krunaß 79 

zurna 52, 56 


Index of Recipes 

(This index contains all the recipe titles in their original languages, and in English, unless 

translation is unnecessary or impossible. It also has a few convenient group entries for 

categories such as ‘baked fish dishes’. The reader is reminded that the catalogue entries in 

the earlier part of the book often suggest additional recipes suited to specific fish; and that 

important ingredients are discussed in pages 242–4. Joy Pemberton-Pigott) 

Acciughe al limone 315 345, 354, 355, 356, 392, 394, 396 

Acciughe tartufate 316 Balık corbasí Bodrumlı 353 

Aigo-sau and rouille 266 Balık fırını 356 

Aladroch 256 Balık köftesi 354 

Albacore, steamed, Zarzis style 128 Baliste aux olives 167 

Alici ammollicate 316 Barboúnia stó hartí 346 

Alici ripiene 316 Barracuda, baked with a béchamel sauce 

Aljotta 83 138 

All i pebre 251 Bass (sea), cooked in the oven 328 

Almejas a la marinera 263 in green sauce 256 

Alose à l’oseille 275 with lemon sauce, Turkish 68 

Alose à la tressanaise 276 with Montpellier butter 281 

Amberjack with garlic sauce 347 sweet and sour 327 

with a red sauce 102 Baudroie de la mère Figon 279 

Anchoïade 276 Beignets de pastègues 299 

Anchovies (canned), in courgettes 363 Beignets de sardines 290 

Anchovies (fresh), baked, cold 355 Besugo con almendras a la Castellana 254 

au gratin 316 Biánco 342 

marinated in lemon juice 315 Bisato in tecia 320 

as prepared at Málaga 253 Bisato sull’ara 320 

in an omelette 355 Blehat samak 393 

in a pizza 310 Bluefish, grilled with mustard sauce and 

and rice, as in Turkey 356 sour cream 367 

sauté 355 Bodoletti, baked 191 

stuffed, Sardinian 316 Bogue soup, Maltese style 83 

Turkish ways with 355–6 Bonite à l’escabèche 123 

Anchovies (salted), with red peppers 315 Bonito, cold 359 

truffled, as in Piedmont 316 steaks with a spicy sauce 123 

Ange de mer au four 32 Boquerones a la Malagueña 253 

Angler-fish, for Flan de baudroie 278 Borthéto 342 

de la mère Figon 279 Bouillabaisse 267 

Spanish ways with 258 dealing with left-over 271 

tail of 327 Boulettes de merlan pannées 378 

Anguilla arrosto 318 Bourride 269 

Anguille sfumate di Orbetello 321 Boutargue 142 

Angulas 251 Braised conger 55 

Arrosto di paraghi e saraghi 80 Bream (red), with almonds 254 

Arroz a la marinera 248 Bream (saddled), casserole of 85 

Athenaikí mayonaísa 341 Bream (sea), with fennel 290 

Atun asado 127 with mussels 284 

Avgolémono psarósoupa 341 with pesto 325 

small, spit-roasted 80 

Baked fish dishes 138, 250, 255, 278, 282, Brik à l’œuf au thon 372 


index of recipes 425 

Brodetto di cannocchie 187 small, fried 210 

Brodetto di pesce veneziano 301 with spaghetti 314 

Brudet 385 with spinach, Tuscan 337 

Burrida alla genovese 304 Venetian, with polenta 337 

Burrida alla sarda 309 

Daurade à la crème d’oursins 280 

Cacciucco livornese 302 à la niçoise 280 

Calamares rellenos con jamón 264 aux tomates (à la Dugléré) 279 

Calamari ripieni 338 baked in rock salt 255 

Calamari in umido 338 baked with tomatoes 389 

Caldera de cigalas 262 with preserved lemons 380 

Caldera de langosta 262 with sea-urchin sauce 280 

Caldera de mero 262 with tomato sauce 279 

Caldillo de perro 246 Denté, baked, Mallorcan 253 

Calmars à l’étuvée 296 baked with tomatoes 389 

Cap-roig con salsa de almendra 257 farci, grillé et flambé à la farigoulette 280 

Cape sante in tecia 334 stuffed (with rice, pear, etc.) 322 

Capitone arrosto 318 stuffed, grilled and flamed with wild 

Capone apparecchiato 322 thyme 280 

Cappon magro 306 with almond sauce 257 

Cassoulet de rascasse à la Suffren 287 Dentice farcito 322 

Castanyola almoster 108 Dentón al horno 253 

Catigot d’anguilles 53 Dentón con salsa de almendra 257 

Ce’e alla salvia 318 Dogfish, Sardinian style 309 

Cernia ripiena 323 Dolphin fish, fried or grilled 107 

Chanquetes 256 in Lampuki pie 386 

Chapon farci 286 in a piquant sauce 387 

Cieche alla pisana 318 Sicilian style 322 

Cigales de mer, Menorcan 262 Dorade au fenouil et au vin blanc 290 

Ciorba de peste cu smântâna 366 Dorada a la sal 255 

Clams, Carthaginian style 205 Dublin Bay prawn risotto 385 

sailor’s 263 

stuffed 297 Eel, baked with leeks and olives 278 

Clovisses à la carthaginienne 205 dishes from Venice 320 

farcies au gratin 297 smoked, as at Orbetello 321 

Coarse or tasteless fish, recipe for 31 spit-roasted 318 

Coda di rospo 327 stew 251 

Conchas de atón 258 Eel, conger, see Conger eel 

Conger eel, braised 55 Eels, baby, cooked in boiling oil 151 

Congre braisé 55 Pisan fashion 318-19 

Cóngrio con pasas y piñones 252 Elmalı ve so©anlı balık 354 

Coquilles Saint-Jacques à la provençale 297 Encornets à l’étuvée 296 

Corb steaks, fried and cooked in wine 98 

Costolette di palombo 30 Filetti di pesco gallo al Marsala 323 

Courgettes stuffed with anchovy 363 Filetti di sfoglia, veri e falsi 328 

Couscous, fish 374 Fish baked with apple and onion 354 

Cozze e patate al forno 335 baked with chard, Mallorcan 250 

Crab, dressed 186 baked with Lebanese sauce 392 

with rice 293 baked in ‘roof tiles’ 364 

small, French ways with 292 baked, Sephardic 396 

soft-shelled, Murano 333 baked in the manner of Spétsai 345 

soups 292–3 baked, Turkish 356 

Cuoccio marinato 149 baked with vegetables 394 

Cuttlefish, as prepared at Agde 294 balls or croquettes, Turkish 354 

in the style of Aigues-Mortes 294 balls, Tunisian 378 

cooked with their ink 350 coarse or tasteless, recipe for 31 

with raisins and pine-nut kernels 252 ciorba with sour cream 366 

risotto 311 with coriander, and walnut sauce 392 



couscous 374 

fried and pickled, Greek style 346 

fried mixed 308 

grilled, the Greek way 344 

kebab, Egyptian 394 

kebabs (in individual bowls) 365 

large, Moroccan recipe for 383 

marinated 249, 383 

mayonnaise, Athenian 341 

pasties, Spanish 249 

patties, Syrian 389 

plakí 344 

rolls, Ukrainian 369 

salad from Antibes 214 

soups see under Soups, fish 

stews 302, 342, 385 

sticks, as made in Egypt 393 

with cumin 395 

with Georgian walnut sauce 368 

with herbs, Romanian 367 

with rice in oniony fish broth 391 

with sauerkraut, Bulgarian 129 

with sesame-paste sauce 390 

with vegetables, Genoese 306 

white, Corfiot recipe for 342 

Fish roe rissoles 348 

Fish roe sauce for spaghetti 314 

Flan de baudroie 278 

Frittata alla marinara 334 

Fritto misto mare 308 

Fritturi tal-makku 136 

Friture de melets 273 

Gambas a la plancha 170 

Garfish, grilled, Maltese style 57 

Garídes mé féta 349 

Garidopílafo 349 

Garozi 364 

Goby fritters, Maltese style 136 

Grancevola alla Veneziana 186 

Grey mullet, baked in rock salt 255 

as prepared at Martigues 283 

with piquant sauce 377 

with pomegranate juice 324 

smoked 143 

stuffed 378 

Grouper with red sauce 380 

Grouper, other recipes, see Mérou 

Gurnard with almond sance 357 

soused 149 

with a walnut sauce 151 

Hake, a recipe from the Marche for 325 

stuffed 255 

Hamsi bu©laması 355 

Hamsi kayganası 355 

Hamsi kızartması 355 

Herring with apples 369 

Hut mamar 383 

Içli tava 356 

Impanata di pesce spada 326 

Imsell mixwi 57 

John Dory baked with potatoes 284 

fillets, with Marsala 323 

Kakeviá 340 

Kalamária yemistá 350 

Kalkan haslaması 359 

Kibbeh samak 389 

Kılıç domatesli 358 

Kılıç siste 358 

Kousha 373 

Lacherda la gratar cu sos de mustar si 

smântâna 367 

Lampredo al vino bianco 324 

Lamprey, moulded in aspic 324 

with white wine 324 

Lamproie à la mode de Bordeaux 25 

Lampuki biz-zalza pikkanti 387 

Lampuki pie 386 

Langosta a la Catalana 261 

Langouste comme au Frioul 293 

Levrek limon salçalı 68 

Likorinos 143 

Lobster, general instructions for 177 

Lobster, spiny, Catalan style 261 

comme au Frioul 293 

Menorcan style 262 

Loup de mer, beurre de Montpellier 281 

Lubina en salsa verde 256 

Luccio marino al forno alla bolognese 138 

Maaquouda aux rougets 377 

Macaroni à l’ombrine à la tunisienne 379 

Mackerel, with walnuts and carrot 121 

livers, salted 364 

pickled, Yugoslav style 386 

salad with parsley and dill 121 

small, baked 282 

stuffed 360 

with white wine 122 

Mantis shrimp, fried 187 

soup 187 

steamed 187 

Maquereaux au vin blanc 122 

Maridákia 343 

Marídes 343 

Marinated fish 249, 383 

Marka (or Mreika) 371 

Mayátici skorthaliá 347 

Melets, friture de 273 

Merlan en raïto 282 

Merluza rellena 255 



Merluzzo in carpione 64 

Mero a la naranja 254 

Mero con salsa de almendra 257 

Mérou au Bleu de Bresse 283 

Menorcan style 262 

stuffed 323 

with almond sauce 257 

with orange sauce 254 

with sauce rouge 380 

with Tunisian pickles 379 

Midye tavası biralı 361 

Moleche alla muranese 333 

Moroccan marinade for fish 383 

Mostelle méditerranée 62 

Moules camarguaises 298 

Moules Nautile 298 

Muggine al sugo di melagrana 324 

Mujol a la sal 255 

Mulet à la martégale 283 

Mullet, see Grey mullet, Red mullet 

Musclos con espinacas 262 

Musical comedy of fish 250 

Musola con pasas y piñones 252 

Mussels, baked with potatoes 335 

with beer and tarator sauce 361 

pizza 310 

with a special mayonnaise 298 

with spinach and spinach croquettes 262 

from Toulon 298 

with vermicelli 314 

Naselli alla marchigiana 325 

Noah’s Arks, with pasta 196 

Nonnat, Soupe de nonnat 273 

Oblada con verdura 85 

Ochtapódi krassáto 351 

Octopus with cumin 214 

Neapolitan 339 

niçoise 296 

and potatoes 264 

in red wine 351 

stew, Corfiot 342 

stew from Bari 214 

stew, Maltese 388 

Ombrine with macaroni, Tunisian 379 

Omelette à la poutine 273 

anchovy 355 

d’oursins 299 

seafood, Neapolitan 334 

Spanish, with fresh sardines 252 

with sea-urchin corals 299 

Orata alla pugliese 326 

Oursinado 270 

Pagre aux moules 284 

Palamut papaz yahnisi 359 

Palombo con piselli 30 

Pasta con le sarde 312 

Pasta con le zampe 196 

Pasta e broccoli col brodo d’arzilla 313 

Pastelillos de pescado 249 

Pasticcio di lampreda 324 

Pasties, fish 249 

Pâté, red mullet, Tunisian 377 

Peix en es forn 250 

Peperoni con bagna cauda 315 

Pescado de bandera Español 260 

Pescado en escabeche 249 

Pesce alla pizzaiola 307 

Pesce in saor 308 

Peste cu ierburi mirositoare 367 

Petits maquereaux 282 

Petits pâtés au thon 292 

Picarel, Greek ways with 343 

salted young 91 

Pie, lampuki 386 

Pie, Sicilian swordfish 326 

Pizza ai cecinielli 311 

alle alici fresche, alle cozze 310 

with anchovies 310 

with mussels 310 

with small fry 311 

Plakiya ot chiroz 121 

Polipo al raguncino 214 

Polpetielli alla Luciana 339 

Poulpe au cumin 214 

Poulpe à la niçoise 296 

Poupeton 271 

Poutargue 142 

Poutine, omelette, also soup 273 

Prawn soup 171 

Prawns, baked with feta cheese 349 

deep-fried, or grilled 170 

and rice, Greek 349 

stewed, Italian style 171 

Prawns, Dublin Bay, in a risotto 385 

Psári plakí 344 

Psári Spetsiótiko 345 

Psária marináta 346 

Psitó psári 344 

Pulpos con papas 264 

Ragù di tonno 330 

Raie au beurre noir 285 

Ramadan soup 372 

Rape a la marinera 258 

Rape con chocolate 259 

Rape con patatas 258 

Rascasse, conserve of 287 

Rascasse, Marseillais recipe for 286 

Rascasse rouge with almond sauce 257 

Ray, Málaga style 259 

Raya a la Malagueña 259 

Ray’s bream fillets grilled with sauce 108 

Red bream with almonds 254 



Red mullet, ‘Baumanière’, 289 

cold, with mint sauce 333 

cold, with saffron 288 

en papillote 346 

grilled with romesco sauce 257 

in vine leaves 289 

Kelibia style 95 

Leghorn style 332 

niçoise 288 

pâté, Tunisian 377 

poached in wine and tomato sauce 332 

with orange sauce (Sicilian) 95 

with rosemary and Parma ham 331 

Riba s orehov sos 151 

Riben kebap v giuvetcheta 365 

Riben zelnik 129 

Ribi pecheni na keremidi 364 

Riso con le seppie 311 

Risotto, cuttlefish 311 

Dublin Bay prawns 385 

Rissoles, fish roe 348 

Riz aux favouilles 293 

RiΩot od ßkampi 385 

Roe, fish, see Fish roe 

Rougets à la niçoise 288 

au safran 288 

aux feuilles de vigne 289 

en papillote ‘Baumanière’, 289 

Saint-Pierre à la Parmentier 284 

Salade antiboise 274 

meshouiya 373 

niçoise 275 

sfaxienne 373 

Salmon trout in a Turkish style 361 

Salmonetes con salsa romesco 257 

Samak kamouneyah 395 

Samak kebab 394 

Samak yakhni 394 

Samaki harra 392 

Samkeh mechwiyeh and tarator sauce with 

pine-nut kernels 392 

Sand-smelt, fried in ‘cakes’ 139 

Sar au fenouil et au vin blanc 290 

Sarde a beccaficcu 317 

Sarde alla Napoletana 42 

Sardines (fresh), deep-fried 42 

in fritters 290 

in an omelette, Spanish 252 

and macaroni pie, Sicilian 317 

preserved 308 

stuffed and baked, Sicilian 317 

Sartañado 274 

Satsivi iz ryby 368 

Saupe, ragoût of 373 

Sayadieh 391 

Scabbard fish, fried 119 

Scad with tender young peas 101 

Scallops, fried, with garlic and parsley 297 

Venetian 334 

Scampi in umido 171 

Schile agio e ogio 333 

Sea anemone fritters 299 

soup 218 

Sea-urchin corals in omelette 299 

Seafood omelette, Neapolitan 334 

pizza, 310-11 

with rice, Spanish 248 

Seiches à l’agathoise 294 

Seiches à l’aiguemortaise 294 

Sephardic baked fish 396 

Seppie alla veneziana con polenta 337 

Seppie al nero con spinaci 337 

Sévereaux aux petits pois 101 

Shad with sorrel 275 

with stuffed dates 382 

in the style of Tressan 276 

Shermoula 376 

Shrimps, baked with feta cheese 349 

Venetian 333 

Shton makalli 382 

Sirviola con salsa 102 

Skate with black butter 285 

Skuße marinirane 386 

Slana gira 91 

Smooth-hound with raisins, etc. 252 

Soffritto, sofregit, sofrito 242 

Sogliole alla parmigiana 329 

Sole à la provençale 290 

Sole, fillets true and faked 328 

fried, with aubergine 290 

with Parmesan cheese 329 

Somun-balighi kyulbasstissi 361 

Sopa del duelo 246 

Sopa de peix 247 

Soup, bivalve (e.g. mussel) 304 

bouillabaisse 267 

ciorba, with sour cream 366 

crab 292-3 

‘dog’, with bitter orange juice 246 

fish, Bodrum 353 

fish, Capri 305 

fish, egg and lemon 341 

fish, Genoese 304 

fish, Greek 340 

fish, Mallorcan 247 

fish, Marseille 272 

fish, Provençal 266 

fish, Sfax 371 

fish, Venetian 301 

mantis shrimp 187 

‘mourning’ 246 

nonnat or poutine 273 

prawn 171 

Ramadan 372 

Roman, with ray, pasta and broccoli 313 



sea anemone 218 

sea-urchin 270 

Soupe d’anémones de mer 218 

de favouilles 292 

de nonnat 273 

de pélous 292 

de poissons de Marseille 272 

de poutine 273 

de roche 272 

Soupiá yachní 350 

Soused gurnard 149 

Spaghetti with cuttlefish 314 

with fish roe sauce 314 

Spaghetti con le seppie 314 

Spaghetti con uova di pesce 314 

Spigola in agrodolce 327 

Spigola al forno 328 

Spiny lobster, see Lobster, spiny 

Sprats with dill 44 

Squid, how to clean 211 

stewed 296, 338 

stuffed 338, 350 

stuffed, Corsican style 295 

with ham stuffing 264 

Stew, eel 251 

fish, various 248, 302, 342, 385 

octopus 214, 342, 388 

squid 296, 338 

tuna 330 

turtle, Maltese 388 

Storione coi funghi 329 

Stuffat tal-fekruna 388 

Stuffat tal-qarnit 388 

Sturgeon with boletus mushrooms 329 

spit-roasted 39 

Suppions frits 210 

Suquillo (or Suquet) 248 

Swordfish en brochette 358 

pie, Sicilian 326 

smoked, Turkish style 132 

with tomatoes 358 

Synagrída baked with tomatoes 389 

Syrian fish patties 389 

Tajen samak bi tahini 390 

Taramokeftéthes 348 

Taramosaláta 348 

Terrine d’anguille à la martégale 278 

Thon en chartreuse 291 

à la vapeur à la mode de Zarzis 128 

Tikvitchki s anshoa 363 

Timpano di ‘scammaro’ imbottito 336 

Tône chtetha 381 

Tonno alla genovese 330 

Top-shells, baked 191 

Tortilla de sardinas frescas 252 

Totanu pienu 295 

Trancie di pagro col pesto 325 

Trigger-fish with olive sauce 167 

Triglie all’anconetana 331 

alla ligure 332 

alla livornese 332 

alla siciliana 95 

fredde con salsa di menta 333 

Tsirosaláta 120, 121 

Tuna (canned), for Brik à l’œuf 372 

in pastry 292 

in scallop shells 258 

in Salade niçoise 275 

in Tunisian salads 373 

Tuna (fresh), braised 127 

cooked in a ‘chartreuse’ 291 

in a Dalmatian sauce 386 

in the Genoese style 330 

steaks in tomato sauce 381 

stew 330 

Tunj kao paßticada 386 

Turbot with vegetables 359 

Turkish ways with anchovy 355 

Turtle stew, Maltese 388 

Ukrainian fish rolls 369 

Uskumru dolması 360 

Vermicelli alle vongole con i pelati (and 

variations) 314 

Weever, marinated and grilled 114 

Whitebait, Moroccan 382 

White fish, Corfiot recipe for 342 

Whiting in red wine sance 282 

Zarzuela de pescado 250 

Zuppa di cannolicchi 304 

di cozze 304 

di gamberi 171 

di pesce alla barese 302 

di pesce caprese 303 

di tellini 304 

di vongole 304

Mediterranean Seafood - Prospect Books

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